Why am I drawn to the aluminum??

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crackedback said:
What a set of rhs flow ootb since there are none really doesn't matter since the op CLEARLY states he planned on buying IMM RHS heads. Making a comparison of the ede's to the imm is ABSOLUTELY valid as an OOTB comparison because the imm head does not come bare.

Running a hyd roller, you'll be upgrading springs or adding an inner. The parts that come on the ede's are not the same as the imm parts. You sure won't have spring interference issues if going roller rockers when using IMM rhs heads.

Slower cars overcome more weight easier, require less hp, than faster ones.

Some people don't like the chunk of aluminum look that the ede's have. I'm putting 24's on my car cause I like bling.. :pukel: If you want that look, have at it.

I have 3 sets of ede heads. I'd have NONE if the RHS heads had been out when I bought them. The ONLY way I buy ede's is if I get a great deal on a set and then have them worked over to my liking so I don't have more in them than a set of RHS $.

Even with a good VJ, the ede's in stock port form WILL NOT make equal power on the same engine as a set of IMM rhs heads. Try it on a 425hp 360... :)

Here's one of my engine and I think it looks like dogcrap with ede heads.
0221131826.jpg
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Cracked - You are assuming "all other parts equal". In that particular instance you are correct - the RHS heads flow more at mid lift and as a result and depending on the cam choice can make more power with a smaller cam. My point is - the builder shouldn't BE using the same parts (namely pistons and camshafts) with these two head choices. I'm not debating whether they are good value or not - they are. But if a customer has the $$ for them, I'll go aluminum every time.

As far as the tailights comments -
You (and others) are also assuming that by "street driving" I mean street racing - as in drag racing. That is also totally incorrect an if you read my post I thought I made that clear. I'm referring to turns, and braking, and power in coming off a turn. You take 50lbs off the nose of any car at 1' above the center of gravity and that car will out brake, out turn, and out drive yours in everything but accelerating in a straight line. As you say - "simple fact".

Idaho - Like you noticed - lots of opinions on this subject...lol. The only one that matters is yours.
 
I think the OP said he had a magnum engine so neither of these heads will work. Will req ma-x heads or eddy mag heads which walk all over la eddy heads. Just an idea
 
I think the term OOTB here is deceiving a little since IMM does the work & then re-boxes them. I'm by no means knocking his work or the quality or value of the heads. But buying heads with the bowls blended & back cut valves etc in them isn't exactly OOTB as they were cast. The greatest gains made are usually in the bowl work. Again, I'm not saying it's not a good deal. But for comparisons sake I think it's not really apples to apples. Not fair to compare a worked head & say it's "not ported" when it clearly has been touched up to a head truly OOTB.
 
Well, been there, done that.

I was inspired by the same Junkyard Jewel article when I built my Magnum.

I *bought* the Eddie Magnum aluminum heads for my project, even installed them. then I saw some pretty convincing flow numbers in a couple of places on the EQ heads, and sold the eddy heads without ever running them and bought a set of EQ Iron Ram heads from Hughes. The cheapie 1.9 valve sub $1K heads. Very happy that I did.

My car made over 330 rwhp with the Iron Ram heads, which is more than the Junkyard Jewel made, and I had less camshaft and less carburetor, plus I had an 80K junkyard short block rather than a "lying around" crate engine. I was super worried about weight transfer with the iron heads vs. aluminum, but my car ran low 1.50/high 1.40 60' times.

FWIW, My magnum had the pistons .050 in the hole. I used the Mr gasket .028 gaskets to bring the compression up a bit, and the Iron Rams are true 58cc vs. 62 for the RHS heads.

My car ran 11s with a 670 street avenger carb on it.

If it were me, I'd have Brian do you a set of the EQ heads....

Just saying....

Steve
 
LXguy said:
Well, been there, done that.
....

Steve
Click to expand...

I wondered if you might have a comment. Your results have been an influence. You're preachin to the choir now. :)
 
Abodybomber said:
Have my heads off,my 00 Magnum.If you want ,I can verify piston to deck. All original. The Edelbrocks out of the box,won't even come remotely close to Brian's RHS ,prepped. Could have him prep,some Eddys,as well. The thumper,is a neat grind.Just follow ,Brian's degreeing instructions.
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Just remembered your offer. No rush but I'm not ready to pull my heads quite yet and I'm curious.
 
Offer given,will respond. Doing the same heads,as Lx's,head gasket's ,on the way. Have some lawnwork tomorrow,hit it for measurement ,tomorrow. Best of luck,on your decisions.At least ,you have the knowledge now. You ask good questions.
 
Thanks. You've given me some good pointers before as have others and its all much appreciated. I try to do the same for others with the bits of knowledge I've scrounged.
 
Because of the initial post I figured the EQs were out of the equation... But - they are another excellent choice if you're open to them - MUCH cheaper than either other option and easier to source because everybody has or can get them reasonably. They are also sold bare and the ports are excellent as cast... not as light as the RPM magnums but no heavier than a factory head - unlike the Indy/RHS ;).
 
Love the Frog.
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LOL the Frog needs all the love it can get. :) I should have named it the tortoise my progress is so slow. :colors:

When I first posted, I wrote that I was considering the EQs as well, then changed it to focus the conversation on the RHS vs Eddies. I had not looked closely at the EQ option.

I see they are popular and lots of shops are selling them. Used for IMCA etc. I'm open to whatever makes sense.

Steve, I'm curious, your car screams, why suggest the RHS instead of the EQ you are running?

The smaller 58 cc volume seems like a good thing. Any other comparative input from anyone?
 
Idaho..048" ,to 053" ,across three bores. Run with the smaller c.c.I have 3 hours,learning one stock port.Buy some RHS/ E.Q,s .( So bucks,ahead,E.Q.s).
 
Abodybomber said:
Idaho..048" ,to 053" ,across three bores. Run with the smaller c.c.I have 3 hours,learning one stock port.Buy some RHS/ E.Q,s .( So bucks,ahead,E.Q.s).
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's a helpful confirmation.
 
With 2.02 valves, beehives... Seems Brian's package is a good value.
Adding in rockers sure drives the price up.
Not that much extra for the nice Hughes shaft mount.
 
The cost of the rockers is what keeps me with the LA versions when possible.
 
Seems sad they went to the pedestals. Wonder why. Maybe lower production cost?
I also wonder, in the real world does it matter much?
Is it worth the extra for the Hughes shaft system?
 
Idaho said:
Seems sad they went to the pedestals. Wonder why. Maybe lower production cost?
I also wonder, in the real world does it matter much?
Is it worth the extra for the Hughes shaft system?
Click to expand...

Shaft mount is much more sturdy for high lift and high rpm. Only reason to go with pedestal rockers is lower cost. For mild combos I wouldn't think you gain much with shaft rockers if it costs extra. If it's a serious effort street or racing application I would definitely get the shaft mount or at the very least a stud girdle.

This article shows how much stud rockers can flex:
http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/matters-control-stud-mount-vs-shaft-3860.html
 
Great article. Thanks. Seems to me the extra C note is a good investment.

Then there’s also a financial consideration. If you already have your studs and rockers, then you will come out cheaper by investing in a good rocker stud girdle. But if you are building your engine from scratch, that’s a different story. When you consider that for a stud-mount system that you’ve got to buy the screw-in studs, guideplates, rocker arms, the stud girdle and the adjuster nuts to go along with it, that all adds up. In the end, you may be able to get away with only paying about a hundred bucks or so more for a good sportsman level shaft-mount rocker system. And once they are set up on your cylinder heads properly, they are pretty bulletproof.”
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Next is pistons. Brian is like any engine builder I guess and would like to see the best of everything including some pistons with valve reliefs. From what I can tell, I should be able to get away with the stock pistons and still have enough cam to satisfy me.
 
The pedestals assure that the Indy/RHS will work on either LA or Magnum block based builds. the fact that the heads have both are what makes them so heavy. They've got two sets of rocker pedestals...
In terms of pistons: No - A piston with a deeper valve relief is a smart upgrade which is why Brian recommends them. You don't need CP custom forged...or any forged for that matter...lol - those are an extra cost that IMO isn't needed. But you need a performance piston with valve reliefs to run any decent sized modern camshafts. New pistons mandate a bore/hone and also balancing the rotating assembly. Another IMO smart extra-cost upgrade would be to internally balance it since it has to be balanced anyway... (See how these things start to creep up...lol)
 
But you need a performance piston with valve reliefs to run any decent sized modern camshafts.
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I don't doubt the advice. However, I see several examples of people running the original pistons and making power that I could be quite satisfied with. In fact, I'd be concerned if I take the power level much beyond the 400 at the flywheel ballpark, especially with a 4 speed, I may be breaking things.

Hard to draw the line but the original intent was to emulate what has been proven with the junkard 360 article and those who ran with the idea. As far as internal balance, I already invested in the spendy 360 Magnum flywheel when a discount came available. It's the old catch 22 - gather parts when the deals come around - then the plan changes... :banghead:

If the engine needs boring then the decision will be made for me. Until that is determined, I'm interested to know what a safe limit for the camshaft might be with stock pistons.

(I know anything I do will need to be checked for clearance after install).
 
Correction to my statement about the EQs needing an LA manifold. They can be had in either pattern.

The info about dual bosses and weight is interesting.
 
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