Wilwood kit install for 9” drum spindles

[cdwmotorsports]

I have a 72 Demon that is getting Wilwood kit 140-11022 D. I have begun the install and wanted to put up some info that I have found and post pics to help those looking at this kit.


First the backside of the spindle that needs ground to clear the new caliper bracket needs to be cut in about the depth of half a quarter and the radius is close. I bought a mini 1/4hp pneumatic die grinder and it removed the material just fine.


Second they state you need to drill out the rear lower spindle bolt hole, they also intend for you to go clear through the balljoint too. The instructions aren’t crystal clear on this but it does go through the ball joint.

The Wilwood lug studs aren’t in my opinion long enough to fulfill length requirements laid out in drag racing rule books, I am ordering new 3 or 3.5” Long lug studs to screw in.

More to follow

 

[BillGrissom]

Thanks. Sounds like they don't tell you about the requirement to grind your spindle and otherwise mutilate factory parts. If one has the option, I suggest changing to 10" drum spindles (different Wilwood kit) since they use larger bearings. I had both little outer bearings (Timken SET1) in my 1969 9" drum Dart fail. The race spun in the hub, ruining it. Both were well-lubed. Indeed, one failed 200 miles after a shop changed both on a cross-country trip and I watched the guy change them correctly. The other failed 3 yrs later, the same way.

 

[stroked340]

I switched over to the Wilwoods on my '70 duster from 9" drums 3 years ago,easy as 1,2,3..I ordered 3" studs when i purchased them..some of the BEST money I ever spent

 

[J Glenn]

Thanks for the info, this is great. (I plan to be doing the same job in about a month or so.) Question: what rims are those? They look like they would take the 9" dog-dish style hub caps (which I have). Thanks.

 

[383Scampman]

F.Y.I. , wheel studs ; when ordering street kits from Wilwood you get studs for steel wheels . N.H.R.A. rules require that one full thread be showing on wheel studs . I'M thinking that you are going from a 13"rim to a 15" or larger rim , therefore, longer studs are required . If you are going to lightweight wheels such as Weld , then, 3" studs are required because long shank wheel nuts require 3" studs in order to have at least one full thread showing . However, having long wheel studs do not prevent anyone from using steel rims with conical lug nuts . P.I.T.A.

 

[383Scampman]

Addendum : With 3" studs there may be interference issues with dog dishes . I am not 100% sure about this

 

[ScampMike]

actually - they DO mention the need to modify the OEM spindle - top of page 2 under "Important Notice - Read this first"
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds758.pdf

 

[ScampMike]

I installed a similar kit on a Scamp a few years ago - initially the brackets didn't fit properly - - - so I called Wilwood and the tech said that they would fit either side side VERY close to the same -- but that there IS a left and a right.. I switched them around and they fit perfectly w/o modification.. not implying that this is what is happening here - just some food for thought.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

My stuff fits just fine, I’m not having any issues.

Im just posting stuff to show guys who may do it in the future.


The Wilwood instructions are very clear about the need to modify the 9” spindle (not sure why grinding 9” spindles matters to anyone since most guys loathe them and swap them out). The drilling of the lower ball joint isnt specifically stated but the bolt is that long so I’m just pointing it out because in my opinion it isn’t clear in the instructions.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

F.Y.I. , wheel studs ; when ordering street kits from Wilwood you get studs for steel wheels . N.H.R.A. rules require that one full thread be showing on wheel studs . I'M thinking that you are going from a 13"rim to a 15" or larger rim , therefore, longer studs are required . If you are going to lightweight wheels such as Weld , then, 3" studs are required because long shank wheel nuts require 3" studs in order to have at least one full thread showing . However, having long wheel studs do not prevent anyone from using steel rims with conical lug nuts . P.I.T.A.

I am running those steel wheels for a bit my goal is to put Welds on it in the Winter. The studs and poverty caps were a concern of mine too if they don’t fit I guess they don’t fit and I’ll toss them in the shed for later. My old front wheels are 14” and I’m going to 15” in the front. Backs were converted by one of the previous owners.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

Thanks for the info, this is great. (I plan to be doing the same job in about a month or so.) Question: what rims are those? They look like they would take the 9" dog-dish style hub caps (which I have). Thanks.

I’m sorry I can’t give you a specific car these are from I got them from a guy on MOPARTS or maybe Craigslist that is local to me. I’ll find numbers and such and post them up in a few with measurements too.

It’s 5 1/2” inside the wheel lip and just over 6” maybe closer to 6 1/2” outside.
Here is a pic of the numbers inside the wheel, I didn’t see any others but if someone know where to find some i’ll Take more pics...

 

[cdwmotorsports]

I installed a similar kit on a Scamp a few years ago - initially the brackets didn't fit properly - - - so I called Wilwood and the tech said that they would fit either side side VERY close to the same -- but that there IS a left and a right.. I switched them around and they fit perfectly w/o modification.. not implying that this is what is happening here - just some food for thought.

That’s a good point, the way to know they are properly is the rear bottom bolt hole needs to be the one that is cut for the recessed head bolt.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

So I have another thing to point out in this install.

The instructions call for drilling out the lower rear bolt hole for the spindle and ball joint to 1/2”. I’m not sure there are different castings but the 1/2” drill bit I used slid straight through the hole with the interference at all. I ran it through a couple passes but there was no reason for this step on my spindles. YMMV.


One thing not in this picture is the washers that go on the hex head bolts, I had forgot them and caught it when I took the pics, good thing they were just test fitted.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

While assembling the brake/hub assembly I found that they would not spin, I noted the bottom front lower ball joint bolt was hitting the inside of the rotor. I am not sure how they are oriented from the factory but the nut was on the outboard side of mine and I had not done anything with them aside from remove the nuts. If you find this to be the case with yours remove the bolt and turn it around so the nut is on the inboard side of the ball joint and everything will function as required.

 

[cdwmotorsports]

Alright all, my Wilwood’s are fully installed and I found one last thing that needs attention, the bracket that holds the steel/rubber line connection needs to be enlarged a bit, the adapter they include is about 5/8” and the holes is closer to 1/2”. Nothing huge just one final thing I noted during assembly.


Hopefully these tips can help someone else in the future, overall it’s a great kit and is easy to install. Weather has been my biggest delays.