Wiring Help 6.1 w/ factory harness

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cnddodgehead

cnddodgehead

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I am running a 6.1 in my 70 e body with manual tranny
So here's what I'm doing .

1st: running 6.1 with manual tranny
2nd .using factory harness thruout
3rd: purchase thunder classic dash with auto meter gauges

I know that I have to put the wire from the alternator to the starter and upgrade it to a heavier wire . But the original wire that ran to the back of the volt meter ? where should it go now?
and the black one that goes from the starter relay to the back of the amp meter?


I have most of the dash together but want to know what is next with these wires and how to use the originals
any pics? diagrams?
Thanks for any help
John.
 
OK,my way of running my ammeter killed two birds with one stone.

I ran a separate wire from the output post of the alt - to the input post of my factory Ammeter.

HOWEVER - If you do this - you will reduce the current draw through your ammeter and it may not register any increase in load.

I did it because I didn't want to accidentally fry my ammeter if the regulator crapped out. Remember - these alts put out 150/160 amps...easily enough to kill your ammeter if the alt goes into overcharge - so if you want to run your ammeter - I suggest you run a separate wire to it like I did from the alt.

The ammeter "output" wire goes to the starter relay, just as your main alternator wire does.

Otherwise just don't connect it - if you have a voltmeter you don't really need an ammeter.


Cant help with voltmeter wiring...never run one.
 
Start by reading this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml


There are several other ways of doing this, but the MAD deal is essentially turning the original battery feed and the original alternator wires into TWO parallel, making one large wire for feeding into the interior, then basically running the alternator right to the battery (starter relay)

The original ammeter wires get bolted / spliced together and taped off. If you new dash uses a voltmeter and not an ammeter, you'll need to provide it with switched 12V power.

What do you have for a shop manual? If you are retaining the original harness, just about all of it can be used for the new cluster, IE dimmer controlled lighting, sender wires for gauges, and switched power to supply the cluster and the voltmeter.

If you are not going to rewire the car I would CERTAINLY install a relay/ fuse auxiliary box somewhere to relieve strain on the key. Mine is low buck. I used a junk box out of a Voyager. The relays in that box operate headlights hi / lo, fuel pump, charging / ignition system, power to the EFI, etc, so all the ignition switch does is trigger relays.

Bussman makes these boxes which you can build up the way you want
 
This is excellent info . its what im after . interesting that they recommend using both wires to supply the dash . my first thought was that two wires going to the same line would cause a short (2 positive connections ) going to the same circuit . my first thinking correct me if im wrong?
 
No this is done all the time, example hooking up MSD, HEI or other ignitions where you replace the ballast resistor. You hook the old IGN1 and IGN2 together

What you can NOT do is , example, putting a Mopar engine into another chassis which has no ignition bypass circuit in the switch, but does need one. A good example was my old Landcruiser, which used a Chevelle column, and 340 engine. I did use a diode in that old girl.

What you need to be careful of is "backfeeds," such as hooking together the ignition and the start line.
 
And just so know i am using the original harness which is in great shape .I am incorporating the auto meter gauges as well .

I am using the factory diagrams as a reference.

I am using a volt meter now and
I have changed the warning lights as well . the turns and the high beam are not an issue . but the brake warning light was positive from the main supply and neg side of the bulb which came from the sender of the brake warning switch .
I wired them with the new bulb this way did I do it right?
 
I am using a msd 6 with carb set up . should the red now supply it rather than go back to the fusible link
 
Not sure I understand. The "big red" and the "big black" on an MSD are the main power and ground wires, and are to be wired HOT. The "small red" goes to switched ignition and is essentially works like a relay trigger wire. It, just like your EFI box needs to be hot both in start and run.
 
ok that's what I thought . what about the other questions about the brake warning? any thoughts
 
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