yokes

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Buschi340

Buschi340

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guys,
i want to rebuild my 8 3/4 489 rear with a 4.86 Ratio. eaton tru track. Car has a Manual Transmission. Will see the track maybe with 50 runs a year maximum.

My question is the propper selection of the pinion yoke. 7290 is the U Joint currently used. My question is about the material. Billet steel is best? Jegs offers a mopar Performance Aluminium yoke. Can Aluminium withstand the hard launches? Whats your opinion in yokes?
 
Hi Buschi , hard launches can kill yokes quickly . I suggest a forged yoke from Spicer with a 1350 joint . You will have to change the end of your prop shaft to match but it's NBD . Good luck
 
Hi Buschi!

i´m running 1330 joints front and rear, think it´s sufficient unless you do some upgrades to the engine. If you plan to get a completely new drive shaft, then the bigger 1350 joints would be nice, but in my opinion not absolutely necessary at our power level. Get the joints without grease fittings, these are more robust.

Michael
 
Buschi340 said:
it is not about the Joints. I asked for the material the yoke should be made of thinking of a shifted car. there are many Options, many dealer and manufacturer. and a good Quality yoke in Germany is a total rip off to buy.
Anyway, what about the one from dennys driveshaft?
8.75 DODGE 10 spline CHROME MOLY pinion yoke 7290 series 8 3/4 inch
Click to expand...


It should be about the joint and the material. I wouldn't use the 7290 joint. I used a forged yoke. They are plenty strong. And use the 1350 joint. The cost is so close as to be nothing. You can use billet, but you don't need it. Should be able to find the forged stuff cheaper.
 
Hi Buschi,

i realized it after i pushed "reply".....;-)

i bought at denny´s twice, delivery to germany is no problem. Just tell them to put a copy of the invoice at the outside of the package for custom clearance.

Dr. Diff has got a forged one for 70 bucks:

Super duty FORGED STEEL 7290 U-bolt yoke

4.86 gears? you should be quick with the shifter....;-)

Michael
 
I believe you have to use the conversion 7260/7290 u joint and they don't make one without a grease zerk. Believe me, if you hook you'll snap that joint first day out, if you're making any power...
Like YR said, 1350. And material chrome moly or billet.
 
yellow rose, the drive shaft has 7290. So if i go with 1350 on the yoke does it really make sence? conversion Joint would be required and every diff Change makes it necessary to press a new Joint into the shaft. Do you think the difference between 7290 and 1350 is so significant? ( my driveshaft is not from the shelf because Toyota 5 Speed tranny )

Michael, to be quick with the shifter i Need to be quick with shifting. Mayor Problem. And with such high gears I think i Need bigger tires. 29" in Diameter probably....
 
Buschi340 said:
yellow rose, the drive shaft has 7290. So if i go with 1350 on the yoke does it really make sence? conversion Joint would be required and every diff Change makes it necessary to press a new Joint into the shaft. Do you think the difference between 7290 and 1350 is so significant? ( my driveshaft is not from the shelf because Toyota 5 Speed tranny )

Michael, to be quick with the shifter i Need to be quick with shifting. Mayor Problem. And with such high gears I think i Need bigger tires. 29" in Diameter probably....
Click to expand...


If you already have the 7290 on the shaft, then it will work at the yoke. If you did a 1350 on the yoke now, if you ever updated the drive shaft, you'd already have the 1350 yoke. If you never intend to change the DL then the 7290 is the best, easiest way to go.
 
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