Your Garage Heating System

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KP

Call the Agent or Company you have your home owners with. My wife has been with the same company for 26 years. They will drop you or refuse claims if your heating system does not meet code (usually some minimum elevation of combustion source). Her company goes one step further and will not allow wood stoves of any kind in a garage which they consider an unattended building. Never mind home made heating sources.

These aren't necessarily my personal opinions, but this is why I ended up going with a gas unit heater, rather than the wood stove I originally intended to use.
 
Would like the see some pictre of this.

Why did you from gas converted to propane.

I converted from gas to propane because my shop is located out in the county where natual gas isn't available.
I posted 2 pictures:
One of the furnace mounted overhead
And one of my torpedo heater
They both run on propane.
I use the smaller one to preheat the shop or when I'm only going to be there for a shorter time.
 

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Since I can't use any combustible fuels in the shop, I have an electric ceiling-mounted Dayton. It's kind of like this one but has two elements ..... http://www.heater-home.com/product/D-F79.aspx. It works so well in the 1,200 sf building that the second element and fan have never once turned on. :-D It runs on single phase, cycling on for about 10 minutes out of every 40 or 50.

Turns out after recent developments there's a good reason it only ran on one leg. It wasn't wired right (too small), it's not the right heater for our electric service and should never have been installed (it uses 208 volts but we've got 240 volt service), and the licensed electrician doesn't seem too inclined to make it right. Probably have to end up in small claims court over this deal ... :-(
 
Turns out after recent developments there's a good reason it only ran on one leg. It wasn't wired right (too small), it's not the right heater for our electric service and should never have been installed (it uses 208 volts but we've got 240 volt service), and the licensed electrician doesn't seem too inclined to make it right. Probably have to end up in small claims court over this deal ... :-(

Cuda if that link you posted is correct, that thing should work OK on 240. It shows 5000 watts, which would be nominally 20A at 240V, or depending on blower and the way it's set up, should operate on "maybe" a 30A circuit, or maybe 40A circuit.

The thing is, electric furnace elements are usually not very "fussy." I have re-strung MANY furnace elements when I worked in the HVAC service field. Here's a typical replacement "universal" element

Notice that they are rated at 5KW at 240V, and 3.75 KW at 208V. That works out to 20 amps at 240, and less at 208V

http://www.myhvacparts.com/store/electric-furnace-re-string-kits.php

Does the nameplate label SPECIFICALLY say that it's only for 208? Some equipment is rated for 208-240
 
http://www.portageandmainboilers.com/

outdoor wood furnace ... but need the open area and supply of wood.
Pipe the hot water into house/garage/shop and neighbour house lol Then to radiator in house/garage.

In the shop I use an old outdoor propane tank cut in half and a door added to the front. That thing can take heat... literally melts your pants off if too close. Burn wood...garbage.. whatever fits.

I always found natural gas and oil burners cold. We just upgraded our house to a corn furnace. about a bushel a day in an old farm house. so at the price of corn $7.00 a day. Only flip the corn furnace on when its really cold out.

What is a corn furnace, I have never heard of that.
 
Cuda if that link you posted is correct, that thing should work OK on 240. It shows 5000 watts, which would be nominally 20A at 240V, or depending on blower and the way it's set up, should operate on "maybe" a 30A circuit, or maybe 40A circuit.

The thing is, electric furnace elements are usually not very "fussy." I have re-strung MANY furnace elements when I worked in the HVAC service field. Here's a typical replacement "universal" element

Notice that they are rated at 5KW at 240V, and 3.75 KW at 208V. That works out to 20 amps at 240, and less at 208V

http://www.myhvacparts.com/store/electric-furnace-re-string-kits.php

Does the nameplate label SPECIFICALLY say that it's only for 208? Some equipment is rated for 208-240


That link I posted before was a similar heater, but not exactly like the one we've got. It's got a name plate and an instruction book that both say 208; I confirmed the 240 service with the electric company last week.
 
Here is mine, hanging Modine unit, don't know much about it other that its gas and heats up the shop like a SOB!!!! :D I have been told by a few people that this is a great heater, one of the best.

Picture4558.jpg

DSC04369.jpg
 
If the name plate specs out 208v and doesnt list 240 volt/amp ratings, then the electrician installed the heater in the wrong application.

Maybe its a 3phase 208v only application.


Yes Mirada, you've got it down perfectly.

One of the main reasons we bought it was because this heater is made to work on either a 3 Phase or Single Phase depending on how it's wired. The shop is Single Phase.

It was our mistake buying the heater in the first place (brand new in the carton for $1400) but, according to the Grainger engineer who designed it, the licensed electrician really messed up when he installed it, calling it "a rookie mistake." We hired him because we're not electricians and wanted it done right. And for the price of the job (+/- $2600 to wire the entire shop), that's what we thought we were getting. His bid wasn't the highest but it wasn't the lowest either, he's an older guy who's lived in Greenfield forever, and he was recommended by a couple people.

We made sure he had the right schematic available; before he got there to wire it, I had also highlighted the information about that model number on the front cover of the owners' manual where the schematic was so there was no confusion -- it's a healthy list in very small print of probably thirty different heaters. But the third column on the list shows it's clearly 208, and it's on the name plate too.

While Billy was on the phone with the Grainger engineer the other day, I was on my cell phone calling the electric company. It was only then that we learned the shop was 240 service rather than 208. We expect it would've been common knowledge to the electrician though, or at least he'd have checked in advance of the installation.

He's been back a few times at our urging because it's never really worked right ... it'd stay on for about ten minutes, then it would kick one side of the double-throw 40 amp breaker and shut off. His only offered solution for the last three winters has been to increase the size of the breaker (all the way up to 60 amps). After Billy put the 60 in there, it came on for just a few seconds, threw one leg on the breaker, and hasn't worked since.

Apparently the wiring to the heater is too small as well. The Grainger guy says the industry recommends a No. 3 but there's No. 6 up there. From what I've learned from my evesdropping on Billy's extensive phone calls the last few days, it doesn't seem the conduit is big enough to hold No. 3 wire either so that's going to have to be replaced too. The heater's on the ceiling beam midway of the 30x40 shop so it's probably a good thirty feet of conduit to the meter pan.

It should also have a double-throw 100 amp breaker. "It pulls a lot of power ..." Oh great, so even if it gets fixed it's going to cost a fortune to run the thing. It's no big secret that PSC isn't on the Fortune 500 list of successful small businesses [yet :-D] and I'm not exactly getting rich doing this by any small stretch.

* * *

After dropping this "Guess what we found out from the Grainger engineer?" bombshell on the electrician last Friday (when he came over to suggest yet an even bigger breaker), he stumbled all over himself and is trying to wash his hands of any liability. "It's been a few years ..." Yep. And he's known about the problem this whole time and his 'solutions' aren't fixing it. It's probably burnt up now since it won't come on at all anymore.

So it's time to chitcan the electric heater idea, go to a gas setup and just shut it down when I pick up that powder gun. Getting the licensed electrician to foot the bill is going to be The Fun Part.

Ya know there's always gotta be a fun part. :-D
 
Cuda, you might look around for a "guy like me" in your area, by that I mean a REAL hands on HVAC tech that knows WTF is up. It is VERY possible that just a very few components, maybe just the head elements themselves, or maybe the motor, need to be changed to get that up and running

If the wattage/ BTU rating is similar to the link you posted, it probably only has one or two heat strips.

It should not take much to get that running.

Can you confirm the BTU rate on the unit, and how much BTU do you feel you really need?

In other words, say it's got 3 heater strips in, you might get by with only running two of the three, as example.

Can you post the installation manual/ wiring diagram of the thing?

ON the other hand, if you have all your receipts, and this one contractor "did it all" it's probably time for small claims.
 
All most have mine ready. Will post pictures soon...
 
Cuda, you might look around for a "guy like me" in your area, by that I mean a REAL hands on HVAC tech that knows WTF is up. It is VERY possible that just a very few components, maybe just the head elements themselves, or maybe the motor, need to be changed to get that up and running

If the wattage/ BTU rating is similar to the link you posted, it probably only has one or two heat strips.

It should not take much to get that running.

Can you confirm the BTU rate on the unit, and how much BTU do you feel you really need?

In other words, say it's got 3 heater strips in, you might get by with only running two of the three, as example.

Can you post the installation manual/ wiring diagram of the thing?

ON the other hand, if you have all your receipts, and this one contractor "did it all" it's probably time for small claims.



I really appreciate all this! You've gone above and beyond in the Help Department. Thank you. :-D

But we're done with the electric one. Just too much poison in the water at this point I think ... got a nice 75,000 BTU gas heater off Craig's List instead. It's not here yet but it will be soon.
 
Just think how much money in heating we would save if we all hung a new poster of Leanna up in the garage??!! That would raise the temp...:glasses7:
 
... got a nice 75,000 BTU gas heater off Craig's List .

OK, please check it out carefully. If it's used, make sure someone checks it for heat exchanger cracks

I don't know your shop situation, but if you use ANY paint/ flammable chemical products, you need to be careful of several things

First and most important is whether the burner has a SEALED combustion chamber, and a separate combustion air inlet from the outside.

Second, if you have any sort of ventilating / exhaust fan in the garage, which can form a slight vacuum in the area, this may negatively affect the vent system of your heater. If this is new or just a few years old, it should have a spill switch or pressure switch or other "safety" that trips when the vent is improper. While this is fairly safe, it does not prevent nuisance trips and loss of heat.

The older, so called "atmospheric burners" are particularly troublesome.

It's been a number of years since I was in this business, but I have seen a LOT of troubles in this area.

PM me if I can help, I sure wish you luck.
 
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