Synthetic oils

-
I use synthetic Royal Purple 5w20 in my Mustang. Seriously seems thinner than water, but that's what it calls for!

For the Scamp, I put regular 20w50 oil in it. Pretty thick but works good. I don't think it has ever been rebuilt yet.
 
Synthetic oil is not for people who are too lazy to change their oil. Its for people who care about this little thing called thermal breakdown. A conventional oil will break down to its lowest viscosity when subjected to extreem heat or abuse,where as a high grade synthetic oil will consistently hold its viscosity no matter the heat or abuse(within reason).Its not a scam,its not lazy, its the truth. Mfg. like mobil 1 and Castrol spends $$$ and time testing these things. Just check out bob the oil guy,so much info it will make your head spin!

Bottom line: Daily driver,slant six, no frills, never above 4500 rpm..etc... run what ever you want to run,it wont really make a diff. Conv. oil if you are budget minded,synthetic if you can spring for it-for the perpose of being able to run a lower rated viscosity for better mpg,faster warm up,easier cold starts...etc.

High comp. big block,small block,turbo slant six 7500 rpm,clutch dumps,WOT shifts,burnouts,stop light to stop light just like to beat the piss out of what you drive,synthetic is the only way to go.

Thanks to a suggestion by a good friend who knows his ****,and only runs mopars, I like Schaeffers oil. Trust me your mopar will thank you.
 
I do mechanic jobs on the side and I recently did valve cover gaskets on a 1989 ford 150 van 302efi. When I took the valve covers off the motor was so clean I couldnt believe it.I asked the guy what oil do you use and he told me 10/40 walmart brand I think it was called TECH. He changes his oil every 3thou. If you are going to keep your car forever use synthetic if you are going to get a new one every 6 years use reg and save your money.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
learn to take better care of your engines. I tore down a propane powered 454 with 160,000 miles w/ conventional oil and it was so clean you can eat off of it. my last 440 with granted only 66000 miles gas powered same deal.
Click to expand...

"propane powered" being the key phrase in this statement
 
RustyDusty said:
JTG said:
Which oil manufacturers recommended that? I have a good friend who is a Jaguar Master Tech, he and all the techs there swear by, "If you ever put anything other than 100% Synthetic oil in an engine, it's useless to ever put in synthetic oil. Use a synthetic blend if you've ever put a non synthetic oil in a engine."

Roller cams may have a big thing to do with whether or not you use a conventional/synthetic oil for break in. I'm not sure though, it's just a guess.
Click to expand...

Red Line
Click to expand...
 
For what its worth, (mainly for slantsixdan) I've had a few positive personal experiences with Amsoil besides the compliments that my engine, trans and differential guys have told me after examining their respective parts.

* In my old 1992 Dodge diesel D-350 dually I switched from conventional Rotella 15w-40 to Amsoil synthetic 15w40. Results - mileage went up a bit and the water temp. gauge showed an obvious decrease in temperature. Easy comparison because I often take the same routes to go racing out of state.

* Broke-in a recent race engine with some old Castrol straight weight 30w oil. Set the timing, idle, etc. Simply switched to 5w-20 synthetic and I had to turn the idle down. It was at least 200 rpm. I don't recall the exact #.

* ET and MPH have picked up when switching from conventional break-in oils to Amsoil synthetics.

* I have a VERY heavy open car trailer with a big tool box that I used regularly for almost 15 years. Still have it. After replacing other name brand wheel bearing greases with their Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease, wheel bearing problems were all but non-existant.

* Recently bent some pushrods and popped a lifter out, losing oil pressure before the end of a 1/4 mile run. Drove the car back to the pits that way. Just buttoned up the engine after finding no unusual wear.

Amsoil marketing is irrelevent. But it would be nice if it was easier to get.

Pricing may be higher in many cases, but there are ways to get the price down.

Amsoil may not be for everyone. It's obviously not cheap. Regular maintenance with quality conventional oils can satisfy the needs of many. But for extra protection, extra insurance and extended life, I personally think that Amsoil can't be beat. And I'm NOT a dealer. I advertise for them because of the "extra" measure of protection they provide. I don't have the resources to make intricate comparisons between brands and could "get by" with other brands. But the extra benefits are worth it.

And there really are at least 2 different types and qualities of synthetic oils. But I don't know where the explaination is in print.
 
I had my transmission in my 97 Ram 4x4 flushed with amsoil, it went from 12 mpg to 15, and there was a definite seat of the pants difference, evidence....
 
A-BOMB360 said:
learn to take better care of your engines. I tore down a propane powered 454 with 160,000 miles w/ conventional oil and it was so clean you can eat off of it. my last 440 with granted only 66000 miles gas powered same deal.
Click to expand...
And do you know why the 454 was in such good condition? It runs off of propane. Propane runs much cleaner than gas causing less problems for your oil as blowby occurs.

Duh...:bootysha:
 
But what about zink additives?!?!?!?!?! :bootysha::snakeman:

gas.jpg
 
JR said:
But what about zink additives?!?!?!?!?! :bootysha::snakeman:
Click to expand...

LOL! That's funny!!

I hate to say it but I'm in the process of changing my oil in the cuda with flat tappet cam of course.

What I have been running is VR1 20W-50 racing oil and a bottle of ZDDP from YearOne. The additive alone shipped to my door costs $20!

Now after reading the link /6 Matt posted (Bobtheoilguy) I'm confused as ever. It's a long story but as much of you know most engine comes in at start up which is 90%. These newer oils address this issue with oil ratings at 0w-30, 5w-30 etc...

20w-50 isn't going to protect at start as much as the latter. The stores around here only get the VR1 in 20w-50 and straight 50w. I went by NAPA today but the place was closed. They show that they have it in 10w-30. A friend of mine sold me a 16oz bottle of the GM EOS assembly lubricant. This isn't a oil additive but is the stuff that was being bought off the shelves when GM said they was going to discontinue it (or something like that). EOS stands for engine oil supplement.

Anyways I don't put alot of miles on my car but like demon seed says the moisture is the killer. Oh and I just can't put synthetic in my old muscle car. It sounds good but I have heard some horrible storys also. Royal Purple comes to mind with spun rod bearings. That's just what I've heard.

So as it stands I'll be getting 5 qts of VR1 10W-30, a filter, and add 8 ozs of the EOS and then hope for the best. Or should I use the whole 16 ozs?

I really don't know whats the best use. I don't believe anyone does actually. LOL
 
after your mech. cam is broken in you don't need zddp anymore. frankly, you shouldn't need zddp during breakin either. 40 years later I would think that castings would be much better. certainly todays oils are light years ahead of the "old school" oils.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
after your mech. cam is broken in you don't need zddp anymore. frankly, you shouldn't need zddp during breakin either. 40 years later I would think that castings would be much better. certainly todays oils are light years ahead of the "old school" oils.
Click to expand...

Wrong, I would suggest that before making statements such as "you shouldn't need the zddp (zinc) during breakin either" you read up on the subject. The skinney on todays oils is that the zinc is being removed plain and simple. Flat tappet cams and lifters need zinc on their contact surfaces to survive especially if running dual springs.

Here's one of many articles on the subject.:read2:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/3engineoilsflattappetcamszinc.php
 
Quote: So as it stands I'll be getting 5 qts of VR1 10W-30, a filter, and add 8 ozs of the EOS and then hope for the best.

That's exactly what I use Mulli, so far so good.
 
demon seed said:
Wrong, I would suggest that before making statements such as "you shouldn't need the zddp (zinc) during breakin either" you read up on the subject. The skinney on todays oils is that the zinc is being removed plain and simple. Flat tappet cams and lifters need zinc on their contact surfaces to survive especially if running dual springs.

Here's one of many articles on the subject.:read2:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/3engineoilsflattappetcamszinc.php
Click to expand...
wrong eh? lol ok. thanks for the link... but I don't need to read what a hack has to say. soft springs are needed for breaking in a cam. you wanna run hi-pressure springs, you take your chances. well with a mech. cam anyways. go roller if hi-spring rates and hi-lift turn you on. simple.

now before you start making YOUR statements about what is right or wrong, I promise you there's millions of flat tappet cams running around the world just fine and dandy without zddp in the oil. I guess somebody should inform them LOL>
 
Im skeered of synthetics. I thought I`d treat my baby to some, mobil 1 I believe it was, It seemed to improve a little according to butt dyno, but one day I went to start her up and heard tapping, noticeing no oil pressure I quickly shut her down. Replaced sender, same crap, oh **** now what? Only about 2000 mi. on the oil I dumped it and changed filter. Went back to my trusty valvolene 5w30, fired it up, and got my oil pressure back wtf? Are their filters designed for synthetics? That was enough for me to shy away from syns`for the cuda anyhow:scratch:
 
Quote: I promise you there's millions of flat tappet cams running around the world just fine and dandy without zddp in the oil. I guess somebody should inform them LOL>


You're absolutely right A-Bomb, there are millions of flat tappet cars running around the world. Where you're wrong is that ZDDP has been part of the additive package in engine oils around the world since the 60's but refineries in north america are reducing it supposedly to help catylytic converters last longer.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
after your mech. cam is broken in you don't need zddp anymore. WRONG - higher spring pressures in performance applications can still wipe a flat tappet cam. frankly, you shouldn't need zddp during breakin either. 40 years later I would think that castings would be much better. WRONG - metalurgy is often crap, especially with the recycled metal we get back from China. certainly todays oils are light years ahead of the "old school" oils. They are - for newer OEM roller cam applications. That, mileage and emissions have priority.
Click to expand...

There are at least a dozen different statements on that issue from reputable engine builders, cam companies, oil companies, etc.

Removing zinc and phosphorous from oil is being done for the same reasons as lead being removed from gas, sulpher being removed from diesel fuel and alcohol being added to gas. None of it is good internal combustion engines, especially older ones.
 
Currently I use Mitsubishi Engine oil, 15W50.
This is the wife's Magna 3.5 lt V6. is a 2001 model with 115,000 km on it.
The oil gets changed every 5,000km as well as the filter.
I had to replace the rocker cover gaskets.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP3718.jpg
    114.7 KB · Views: 282
  • IMGP3719.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 290
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top