6.1 Valve spring failure

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Buschi340

Buschi340

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there is a "thing/cover/whatever" wrapped around the valve springs. This broke on one cylinder. See picture. Found a picture on the web which shows it new. My questions are:

- whats that thing called
- What is it doing, is it necessary
- easiest way to replace. Heads off?
- common problem?

( I know I have to search for the small parts in the engine. Hope I find them in the sump. Cross your fingers..... )
 

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yesterday I found more pieces in the oil than I thought it broke. So there are more valve springs damaged. Got a link thru Moparts that this is maybe caused by a change in production by Mopar. Not good.

I suggest to check your 6.1 engines, guys. Especially if you race sometimes.

Any ideas of a good aftermarket brand for new valve springs. Maybe with 2 springs instead of the original design?
 
we used to change valve springs all the time on the 5.7L truck engines, the replacement springs came with those sleeves / retainers on them. Honestly your car should run just fine without them, not sure of the true purpose of them. maybe to limit spring deflection ?
 
yes. A buddy said they damp and they keep oil from the valve stem because of the catalytic system. He said also it should work without if I don't drive above the red line all the time hahaha

Guess I will try without. It is so uncomfortable to know that this can happen all the time again .....
 
The insulators job is to protect against valve spring "squirm" and also dampen spring harmonics.

The factory started using them due to a large number of spring breakages on the early 5.7s.

If you are breaking the insulators its down to side loading or harmonics and you certainly do need new springs.

The spring of choice on the LX forums for mild cam builds seems to be the PSI LS1511ML .

This spring is a good choice because its a straight drop in and uses the factory shims and retainers.

Best price I have seen is here:...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271211949060ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
the link doesn't work....

Today I found some more of them damaged. All intake springs. I turned them and I looks like the "insulators" can't turn 360° fully. they are hitting the edge of the head. In the picture I'm pointing on it. Can't imagine that this is normal. Maybe those insulators are kinda more widen? Gone loose?
 

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What RPM are you spinning the motor?

My guess is that you are due for an entire set of springs.

I'd also pull the motor and do a complete tear down because of the amount of metal that has now entered the pan.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe,
6500 a few times a year on the strip. For example this year maybe 10 runs, last year maybe 10 runs. On the street not over 4000rpm. I have the engine running now 3 years.

Rat, you think those fit? It is GM LS1. Does those springs require this shield too?

I saw an article which showed the diameter of the spring are on the top end different and requires some serious modifications. You wrote it and I saw the behive style but does GM uses both kinds of springs in the LS1 engines?

What company is this? Never heard about....
 
6500?

Hmmm, if it is only occasionally that should be tolerable. Max power on a stock motor occurs at 6200, so the motor should be able to safely spin to 6500.

If you were running the engine north of 7K, I'd say maybe you need a better spring. But you appear to be running well within the stock RPM range.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
There are a few head on valve spring tools, but they are big money... PM sent.
 
The engine I am going to pick up tomorrow lost a valve spring, its an 05 6.1. I guess the early 6.1's had inadequate springs out of the box.
 
Buschi340 said:
do they require those shields too or do they stand alone?
Click to expand...

Yes..you use the existing insulators if they are intact.

AFAIK...the issue is not just with high RPM, but that the switch over to " green stripe" intake springs brought these issues on with the 6.1.

They dont appear to be very durable, and are being asked to cope with a significant lobe lift...well above anything a factory LA or Magnum used and at higher RPM.

Before assuming the factory 6.1 springs are not being asked to do much.......its worth considering what spring you'd run in a 360 with an intake lift of .550 run to 6500 rpm
 
If you run without them massage the spring pockets in the head.. It is the edge on the valve cover side the catches the spring when they start dancing. This is the reason for the barrel and the taper at the top of the barrel pictured. I am sure if you look close you will see what caused the fracture on the Barrel end on valve float. Ditch the springs and the barrels. or keep it under 6500.
 
I'd rather just use the bottoms of them as locators and cut the tops off when I go to the PSI springs. LS engine dont run the cages, why should I?
 
Modern Muscle said:
PSI 1511 will work they are listed as a GM spring but they are what we all use on performance heads
Click to expand...

Chris, you mean you sell them with your heads in your shop? W/ or w/o those shields?

I asked our local dodge dealer for those shields but Mopar delivers only with the valve assembled.
 
didn't checked it out but is there a seat/retainer for the valve bottom? Or are the clamps of the damper the seat? In the case if I use the other springs from above w/o damper do I need a retainer below the valve to avoid valve movements sideways?
 
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