Could my 340 block be filled?

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You will not see a TS205 listed but it IS the correct sender for your car. I have been using that number for years as it is the correct OHM's. I used a NOS 1971 sender to spec it out and old books for cross referencing. Trust me, I had the same problem you are having. My temp gauge would read between 3/4-7/8 @ 200 degrees. With the TS205 it reads about 3/8.
 
LeeinRI said:
How did you make out? The suspense is killing me! Lol
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I haven't had any garage time yet.....I did take your advice on getting a TS205 that hopefully will be arriving today or tomorrow.

I'm hoping to at least warming up the car later and using the infrared thermometer I now have to see where the temp is. I don't know how accurate they are but at least it will be in the ball park and take the guessing out of it. Don't worry....I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
 
Watch your gauge while warming up with the infrared on the themostate housing, then you know what the gauge marks mean.
 
sireland67 said:
Watch your gauge while warming up with the infrared on the themostate housing, then you know what the gauge marks mean.
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Well i put the new heat sending unit in and fired up the car. I let it warm up for 20 minutes. I used the infrared thermometer and hit the water neck. The temp was at about 180. I went for a ride to a friends house and the temp was at 190 and the gauge was way lower than it has been. I shut the car down for about 15 minutes or so and when I went to leave my car would not start. It was turning over but I had no spark at all. This is a problem I have also been chasing for a while. I'm thinking the coil is getting to hot and failing. It is a newer coil.....jap crap from rock auto mounted sideways on the intake like it would've been from the factory. I check the wires connected to the coil and I felt oil at the top of the coil. Oh the pain.....anyone have a recommendation on a good coil I should try. I'd like it to look and mount in the stock location.
 
The MSD blaster coils are good. They are dimensionally the same as the factory coils, you could take the sticker off and paint it, would look stock.
 
Old gms use to mount tower pointing down.
Best bet is epoxy filled coil.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Old gms use to mount tower pointing down.
Best bet is epoxy filled coil.
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I put my new MSD coil in tonight and another ballast resistor. Fired her up and let the car warm up for a while. Set the timing and went for a little joy ride. Put the car back in the garage for about 10 minutes and I put the timing light back on it. Turned the key and I am right where I have been for a very long time. No spark when I go to fire her up......the ballast resistor was extremely hot.....like 200 degrees hot...the wiring going to the ballast resistor is totally half assed like most of the car has been as I try to fix things.....It looks like 5 wires going to the ballast.....one side has 2 dark blue and a green with yellow trace....the other side looks to have 2 faded red wires
IMG_3749[1].JPG
 
No fire,the simplest of test lights will track down your problem.
Ground alligator clip,probe pos side of coil with key on. Should light.
Move ground clip to pos post on battery,probe neg side of coil. Now crank engine. Light should blink.

Do i need to mention, verify that test light actually works before and during test procedures? There is nothing worse than an intermittent tester to screw with your diagnosis. Garbage testers yield questionable results.
 
Tooljunkie said:
No fire,the simplest of test lights will track down your problem.
Ground alligator clip,probe pos side of coil with key on. Should light.
Move ground clip to pos post on battery,probe neg side of coil. Now crank engine. Light should blink.

Do i need to mention, verify that test light actually works before and during test procedures? There is nothing worse than an intermittent tester to screw with your diagnosis. Garbage testers yield questionable results.
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I am definitely not getting spark. I had my son cranking the engine over with my timing light hooked up and the light never lit up.
 
I try to go at a no spark with a simple routine, power, ground and the proper pulse to drive the ignition coil. As i prove out working components i move on to the next one down the line. My career is made up of troubleshooting fuel injection and electrical diagnosis, i dont get many oppurtunities to work on the early stuff any more,yet i find it about as difficult as changing a light bulb. No msd stuff on my customer's classic cars but the theory is the same.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I try to go at a no spark with a simple routine, power, ground and the proper pulse to drive the ignition coil. As i prove out working components i move on to the next one down the line. My career is made up of troubleshooting fuel injection and electrical diagnosis, i dont get many oppurtunities to work on the early stuff any more,yet i find it about as difficult as changing a light bulb. No msd stuff on my customer's classic cars but the theory is the same.
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The MSD coil I got is no special coil......Except for its pretty label and the fact it is filled with epoxy instead of oil. My car currently has a 2 post ballast resistor and on one of the sides is 2 wires into the main connector and the other side has 3 wires all going to some jerry rigged connector like I previously posted. I'm pretty sure my car was converted to electronic ignition so I have no idea how it is supposed to look. My 72 Duster I had previously had a 4 post ballast which I'm thinking I should have. All I know is my coil and ballast were extremely hot when I had no spark after running the car for a while without any issues. I've fixed a ton of stuff that was done incorrectly in this car so if the ballast is wired wrong or its the wrong one it would be no surprise.
 
gtgto said:
I put my new MSD coil in tonight and another ballast resistor. Fired her up and let the car warm up for a while. Set the timing and went for a little joy ride. Put the car back in the garage for about 10 minutes and I put the timing light back on it. Turned the key and I am right where I have been for a very long time. No spark when I go to fire her up......the ballast resistor was extremely hot.....like 200 degrees hot...the wiring going to the ballast resistor is totally half assed like most of the car has been as I try to fix things.....It looks like 5 wires going to the ballast.....one side has 2 dark blue and a green with yellow trace....the other side looks to have 2 faded red wiresView attachment 1715088055
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What set up do you have that requires a ballast resistor?
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
What set up do you have that requires a ballast resistor?
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It looks to be a stock type setup like what would've came standard on a 72 340 Duster. Very similar to what is pictured. Minus the Orange ECU.... I inherited the setup when I bought the car
MN1115.JPG
 
If you look at ecu, it has four pins instead of five. That missing circuit was the other half of the ballast. Its now in the ecu.
If there is power, ground and ecu is grounded and assumed good and pickup is good there is no reason it shouldnt run.
 
Tooljunkie said:
If you look at ecu, it has four pins instead of five. That missing circuit was the other half of the ballast. Its now in the ecu.
If there is power, ground and ecu is grounded and assumed good and pickup is good there is no reason it shouldnt run.
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Are you talking about the pickup coil in the distributor? Is that something that can be bad and only fail when car is warm and has run for a while. The restarting the car when hot and having no spark has been a solid symptom for a while.
 
gtgto said:
Are you talking about the pickup coil in the distributor? Is that something that can be bad and only fail when car is warm and has run for a while. The restarting the car when hot and having no spark has been a solid symptom for a while.
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You bet. All it takes is an ohm test when its not firing. You be looking for 350-550 ohms.
I would expect its open or shorted when hot.just throwing parts at it gets expensive. But its not like i can stop by and help you through this. Much as i would like to.
 
Tooljunkie said:
You bet. All it takes is an ohm test when its not firing. You be looking for 350-550 ohms.
I would expect its open or shorted when hot.just throwing parts at it gets expensive. But its not like i can stop by and help you through this. Much as i would like to.
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Well the parts I have replaced were external parts which were eye soars but your right...They do add up.....Hopefully one more part will fix the issue although I'm still concerned about how hot the ballast resistor was when I touched it.
 
gtgto said:
Are you talking about the pickup coil in the distributor? Is that something that can be bad and only fail when car is warm and has run for a while. The restarting the car when hot and having no spark has been a solid symptom for a while.
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I agree with tooljunkie, I had a 1990 318 Dodge D-150 that had these very same symptoms. Truck would run and then for no reason die. I'd wait just a little while and it would crank up. Wound up being the pick up in the distributor.
 
When it fails to start, dump a glass of cold water on the ECU box. Give it a minute or two and try it again. If it fires, the ECU is getting hot and breaking down. Used to do it on Fords all the time. Works on Mopars, too.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I agree with tooljunkie, I had a 1990 318 Dodge D-150 that had these very same symptoms. Truck would run and then for no reason die. I'd wait just a little while and it would crank up. Wound up being the pick up in the distributor.
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I ended up ordering a rebuilt distributor and also a pick up and I'm going to forego the core charge and rebuild my distributor as well so I have an extra on hand. My parts came in yesterday and I installed the distributor. Hopefully will fire it up later and set the timing and test her out. I hope this problem is now in the past and I can plot and prepare for my next project on the car.
 
Started up my car tonight and let it warm up to temp. Set the timing and let her run for a while. After shutting the car off for about 15 minutes and then turned the key and she started right up. Shut the car off again and let it sit a while and then turned the key and she started again. That has not happened in the year and a half that I've owned her. Didn't get a chance to go for a ride but I think finally she can be considered dependable. Hoping to not have to call AAA for a while. Will get a chance Sunday to take her out and give her the real test. Pretty excited
 
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