Summit paint

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dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Has any one here used any of the summit urathane paint? I'm looking at the single stage urethane but I'm still gonna do a clear. Any complaints? I'm looking at 2 colors in particular if you have used it especially these two colors please post pictures. The colors are bright orange metallic and burnt copper pearl. I'm wanting a similar color to fk5 burnt orange. Thanks
 
These are the colors I'm looking at

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I choose single stage because of the price I was not gonna do a clear but then I read on metallic paints you should do clear. It's still cheaper to use single with a clear. I will look into the link you sent me I may find a better deal there.
 
summit paint is kirker paint. painted a couple solid color cars with it. doesn't spray out as nice as a good base clear but, its decent paint for the price.
 
I would not cheap out on a paint job and go with the base clear.

It could turn into and expensive oops lesson
 
I have read about paints over the last several months and have learned alot I have some experience with painting and have learned the hard way I painted my dart before with cheap oil base enamel from the local farmers fleet store and while it looked pretty darn good it didn't last is started getting dull within a year and was completely faded and almost see thru in 5 years . So what iv read is lacquer paint is crap what I learned is enamel without clear is crap and urathane has the best UV protection and will last the longest but is very dangerous to spray without proper PPE. Just curious why is base clear better than single if I'm using a clear? I'm using the correct 2k urathane primer urathane paint with a urathane clear is this a good set up that will give me a decent driver paint job? I'm not building a show car or trailer queen. OEM quality is what I'm looking for. Thanks for your help guys
 
I think if you’re never going to, down the road whether it be in 2 years or 8 years, say “I should have used higher quality materials when I painted it initially” then go ahead with the budget paint and method you’re thinking of using.

What folks are suggesting is that if you’re going to invest 50hrs in body work and $2,000 in money now and years down the road you’re going to wish you spent another 10hrs and $750 in materials when originally painting it, then spend that extra time and money now.
 
Thanks what make base clear better than single stage? Does it last longer look better? I agree 100% it's better to spend the money now instead of redoing it in a few years. What's the big difference between the the two? As far as quality goes? Or is it that base clear is easier to spray?
 
I was on a tight budget when I did mine and was willing to take the risk after doing as much research as I could. I used a good primer, went with the coating store paint and southern polyurethane clear. Going on 4 years now and it still looks great with no problems.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

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We tried a Summit single stage, non-metallic. It comes pre-reduced (and pretty runny). The stuff laid out and cured nice but the color was so translucent there were some mismatches shooting (in pieces) over gray sealer. Might have gotten away with it over white. Additional coats would have worked too but then that's more material. In the end we recoated with a different base/clear. Don't think I'd use it again on something I really cared about.

I'd use base/clear if doing a metallic. Easier to work with, you can cut and buff, and easier to repair later.

(Before the respray I had a friend involved who was a very experienced painter in a production environment. He managed to get a lot of runs in it).
 
I have used both the single stage and BC/CC from summit they both shoot nice.
The red single stage, orange is BC/CC.
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The black paint on the front clip of my Duster is single stage Summit paint. Sprayed out fine, been on there a few years and seems to be holding up great. I'll probably use it on a few more of my cars, no complaints at all!
 
We tried a Summit single stage, non-metallic. It comes pre-reduced (and pretty runny). The stuff laid out and cured nice but the color was so translucent there were some mismatches shooting (in pieces) over gray sealer. Might have gotten away with it over white. Additional coats would have worked too but then that's more material. In the end we recoated with a different base/clear. Don't think I'd use it again on something I really cared about.

I'd use base/clear if doing a metallic. Easier to work with, you can cut and buff, and easier to repair later.

(Before the respray I had a friend involved who was a very experienced painter in a production environment. He managed to get a lot of runs in it).
I'm not sure we are talking about the same paint. The paint I'm referring to is not pre reduced you have to mix it maybe its changed thru the years? Thank you for your help.
 
I have used both the single stage and BC/CC from summit they both shoot nice.
The red single stage, orange is BC/CC.
View attachment 1715218334

View attachment 1715218335
Wow both of them look pretty darn good to me! I keep seeing ppl say that base clear is easier to work with why is that? I'm in between two colors one is metallic one is pearl which one would be easier to spray and does pearl require a clear like metallic?
 
The black paint on the front clip of my Duster is single stage Summit paint. Sprayed out fine, been on there a few years and seems to be holding up great. I'll probably use it on a few more of my cars, no complaints at all!
Any pictures?
 
Wow both of them look pretty darn good to me! I keep seeing ppl say that base clear is easier to work with why is that? I'm in between two colors one is metallic one is pearl which one would be easier to spray and does pearl require a clear like metallic?

With metallic I would use the base / clear.
Solid color, I would shoot the single stage.
 
What about pearl? Is that like metallic?

Yes it is actually a tri-stage paint.
True pearl you do the following:
Shoot a flat base coat.
Shoot the Pearl.
Then clear coat.

Metallics are easier to shoot in base/clear because it flashes quick.
On single stage you can have a build up of metallic's, and actually have a metallic sag, but no run in the paint. Or tiger striping.

If this is your first paint job, stick with the base clear on the metallics, it is just easier to work with.
Downfall is you have to shoot twice as much paint.
 
I'm not sure we are talking about the same paint. The paint I'm referring to is not pre reduced you have to mix it maybe its changed thru the years? Thank you for your help.

That cannot be, the single stage you have to mix hardener and reducer with it.
That stuff covers nice.
 
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