360 timing issues

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60Powerwagon

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Brenham, TX
I basically did a rebuild on the 360 in my Duster. New main and rod bearings, one new piston to replace one slightly bad one, new rings, new pushrods(same length as old ones), and new gaskets. I did not remove the cam, crank, or timing chain. I’ve checked the crank pulley for correct TDC twice, checked distributor timing twice to verify I set at TDC, and still have problems. It will idle fine for a while then begin to load up. It drives fine until you get on it more than 1/4 throttle or so then it starts clattering. My timing light is showing it at 5-10 degrees after TDC, but when I try to retard any more than 5 it will die. It has a Mallory distributor with mechanical advance. Any suggestions? It’s beginning to get on my nerves!
 
Needle and seat not shutting off fuel, loading up.

Dirt/sand/rust on seat.

Float levels set too high.
 
I would not retard the timing, especially when it makes it run worse. Add timing. Throw 10* at it and if runs better, throw more at it.
 
318willrun said:
I would not retard the timing, especially when it makes it run worse. Add timing. Throw 10* at it and if runs better, throw more at it.
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It’s only running from 5-10 degrees after TDC. It should be 10-15 before. Anything more or less than that it will die. Idles fine and best at about 8, but anything over 1/4 throttle it clatters bad
 
60Powerwagon said:
It’s only running from 5-10 degrees after TDC. It should be 10-15 before. Anything more or less than that it will die. Idles fine and best at about 8, but anything over 1/4 throttle it clatters bad
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ok, you didn't say you tried to advance it too. At this point it could be fuel delivery, or something in a clue we haven't got yet.
 
Are you sure you verified #1 TDC when it was on the compression stroke?
 
60Powerwagon said:
I basically did a rebuild on the 360 in my Duster. New main and rod bearings, one new piston to replace one slightly bad one, new rings, new pushrods(same length as old ones), and new gaskets. I did not remove the cam, crank, or timing chain. I’ve checked the crank pulley for correct TDC twice, checked distributor timing twice to verify I set at TDC, and still have problems. It will idle fine for a while then begin to load up. It drives fine until you get on it more than 1/4 throttle or so then it starts clattering. My timing light is showing it at 5-10 degrees after TDC, but when I try to retard any more than 5 it will die. It has a Mallory distributor with mechanical advance. Any suggestions? It’s beginning to get on my nerves!
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Advance, not retard it .
Btdc, not atdc
 
60Powerwagon said:
I basically did a rebuild on the 360 in my Duster. New main and rod bearings, one new piston to replace one slightly bad one, new rings, new pushrods(same length as old ones), and new gaskets. I did not remove the cam, crank, or timing chain. I’ve checked the crank pulley for correct TDC twice, checked distributor timing twice to verify I set at TDC, and still have problems. It will idle fine for a while then begin to load up. It drives fine until you get on it more than 1/4 throttle or so then it starts clattering. My timing light is showing it at 5-10 degrees after TDC, but when I try to retard any more than 5 it will die. It has a Mallory distributor with mechanical advance. Any suggestions? It’s beginning to get on my nerves!
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Were you at some point having too much total/mechanical ical advance and so you went the other way..? Not trying to jump the gun too much but is this the adjustable advance model?
 
60Powerwagon said:
Either way it’s showing atdc according to the timing light.
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You say you verified tdc and at the balancer...so..and the cam is degreed right and not a tooth off?
Anything reversed? wires cut and reattached wrong at the distributor..? That'll do it....or if I'm not mistaken...if it's for a marine engine, reverse rotation..then advance would be retard.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You say you verified tdc and at the balancer...so..
Anything reversed? wires cut and reattached wrong at the distributor..? That'll do it....or if I'm not mistaken...if it's for a marine engine, reverse rotation..then advance would be retard.
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mbaird said:
Are you hooked to the #1 plug wire ?
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.Theres the clattter... already advanced 40 at idle lol
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You say you verified tdc and at the balancer...so..and the cam is degreed right and not a tooth off?
Anything reversed? wires cut and reattached wrong at the distributor..? That'll do it....or if I'm not mistaken...if it's for a marine engine, reverse rotation..then advance would be retard.
Click to expand...
I never removed the cam, timing set, or crankshaft. Wires to the distributor are plug in and only go one way. And it’s not a marine engine. Everything rotates clockwise as it should. I have no clue if the cam was decreed.
 
New main bearings without removing crankshaft/timing set?
Are you sure the distributor isn't in 180* off?
 
Did you verify TDC with a piston stop?
 
60Powerwagon said:
Yes sir. Take off all main caps then slide out the old, and lube up the new and slide in. It’s running so it can’t be 180 out.
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well, means you did not pull the cam, remove the chain, and you've advanced/retard the timing, I would say either fuel delivery or something is wrong with you Mallory distributor. OR..... what ECU are you using? Could that be playing games?
 
60Powerwagon said:
Yes sir. Take off all main caps then slide out the old, and lube up the new and slide in. It’s running so it can’t be 180 out.
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Oh, it'll run 180 out- like crap, but it'll run. Clattering, banging and protesting the whole way.
 
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Which fender are you looking over to set timing? Pass or Drivers side?

Loose wires at the coil for power and trigger?
 
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