I would sooner repair or rebuild the distributor i have, or get one from halifaxhops, he will dial it in perfect, unlike some generic off the shelf smogger dustributor that will have cheap offshore internals.
I'm sorry I should have said electronicNo returns on electrical, how does warranty work? Return for warranty. So a faulty 350 dollar starter cant be returned? Young feller doesnt understand..
Lol, I didnt think they were but some tough people online love to think they're better than others, specially when behind a computer screen. No worries, easy enough to ignore. For everyone else who actually give great advice without judgements, I appreciate it and will take all this as a learning experience if swapping the cap doesnt fix the issue. I'll keep this thread updated, part should come in this Tuesday.Op, ain't nobody here picking on Ya, we wanna see Yer Mopar on the Road as much as You. These ol Gals have so.e quirks, but are kinda simple, compared to the junk today. And therein lies the problem, you take your Mopat to a shop, they're going to want to rob you to death. Why not, when they can charge someone else 800 bucks to hook their car up to a computer and throw a sensor on it. You got some of the best Minds in the game right here... they are all Good People too!
Maybe its not in your wheelhouse, but some research will guide you through the troubleshooting and proper tool usage. Decent diagnostic tools are reasonably priced and likely much more cost efficient than paying a garage to diagnose the problem. The issue that came to light was your shop called a bad distributor,where an inexpensive part would possibly get it running. We are in the age where a diagnosis is to plug in a scan tool to determine where the faults are. You already have three of the most valuable tools, eyes,ears and the gray matter between them,how you use them is up to you.Lol, I didnt think they were but some tough people online love to think they're better than others, specially when behind a computer screen. No worries, easy enough to ignore. For everyone else who actually give great advice without judgements, I appreciate it and will take all this as a learning experience if swapping the cap doesnt fix the issue. I'll keep this thread updated, part should come in this Tuesday.
Agreed however, with time constraints, limited space to work on the car plus a few other things I'd need not explain, I just needed the car back to working order ASAP. If these weren't an issue, I'd be doing everything laid out in this thread one at a time.Maybe its not in your wheelhouse, but some research will guide you through the troubleshooting and proper tool usage. Decent diagnostic tools are reasonably priced and likely much more cost efficient than paying a garage to diagnose the problem. The issue that came to light was your shop called a bad distributor,where an inexpensive part would possibly get it running. We are in the age where a diagnosis is to plug in a scan tool to determine where the faults are. You already have three of the most valuable tools, eyes,ears and the gray matter between them,how you use them is up to you.
A large percentage of fellow members on this site are hands on,and this old school stuff comes natural,as its as simple as it can get.
I'm replacing the entire distributer.Did I read correctly that it's just the cap he says needs replaced? Not the entire distributor?
I'll bet that's not the problem.I'm replacing the entire distributer.
If your doing it Yourself, and ain't done one, Mark a reference line through the base of the distributor to the manifold and then take reference to #1 on the cap. Take a picture of the old one and see if you can square off the nipple on the vacuum advance and make a little Mark there and then look at the new one and see if all those points jive up. Or you could just bring it to number one on the compression stroke and if the distributor shafts in the right place you can just drop it in with the rotor pointing toward the number one intake manifold bolt
We'll see come Tuesday
Thanks!If your doing it Yourself, and ain't done one, Mark a reference line through the base of the distributor to the manifold and then take reference to #1 on the cap. Take a picture of the old one and see if you can square off the nipple on the vacuum advance and make a little Mark there and then look at the new one and see if all those points jive up. Or you could just bring it to number one on the compression stroke and if the distributor shafts in the right place you can just drop it in with the rotor pointing toward the number one intake manifold bolt
UnderstoodOne last thing for the evening, if you can figure out how to use the search function here which I have a hard time with sometimes or better yet, start a new thread there's people that are WAY better at describing how to do that crap than I am
Had that happen once too.Maybe take the cap off your distributor and make sure the center tang for the rotor is still there. Had one break off, exploded a set of muffler on the freeway on my 71 Demon with a hellacious backfire. My friend following me thought I ran over an IED on the I-10.
Sometimes it's a very simple fix that can be nothing more than an observation. Good luck with it.
@halifaxhops has forgotten more about distributors than most folks know. He ships them all over the world. I would ping himUnderstood
Just finished test driving after installing the distributor. She runs even better than before!Well it's Tuesday night? Verdict?
I know a guy who kept having needle and seats go bad. He was cruising down the 41 in the valley and all the sudden both Mufflers blew up and took out the Driveline!Maybe take the cap off your distributor and make sure the center tang for the rotor is still there. Had one break off, exploded a set of muffler on the freeway on my 71 Demon with a hellacious backfire. My friend following me thought I ran over an IED on the I-10.
Sometimes it's a very simple fix that can be nothing more than an observation. Good luck with it.