Vehicle running warm 360 la

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Dillon Crowell

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My 360 la has been running hot lately it gets up around 220. I have a 26in aluminum radiator and 2 electric fans with a 180 thermostat. It has some bubbling in the radiator when I take off the fill cap so I’ve been thinking that maybe the head gasket is leaking exhaust into coolant. When I start the car up warm the temperature will be around 210-220 and will drop down to the 180 like the thermostat but will quickly then go back up to 195+. The temperature will go down to 185-195 when I’m doing steady driving. But anytime I stop the temperature hits 200+ quickly. It used to just sit at or right around 180 at all time. I recently had a vintage air ac and heater installed and it doesn’t blow hot so I’m assuming I have something wrong I’m my coolant system.
 
Dillon Crowell said:
My 360 la has been running hot lately it gets up around 220. I have a 26in aluminum radiator and 2 electric fans with a 180 thermostat. It has some bubbling in the radiator when I take off the fill cap so I’ve been thinking that maybe the head gasket is leaking exhaust into coolant. When I start the car up warm the temperature will be around 210-220 and will drop down to the 180 like the thermostat but will quickly then go back up to 195+. The temperature will go down to 185-195 when I’m doing steady driving. But anytime I stop the temperature hits 200+ quickly. It used to just sit at or right around 180 at all time. I recently had a vintage air ac and heater installed and it doesn’t blow hot so I’m assuming I have something wrong I’m my coolant system.
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Ever had a water pump impeller come loose from the shaft?
Getting hot when it didn’t before and no heat could be low or no coolant circulation.

A head gasket would cause it to push coolant out on the hiway too, and not just at idle or low speeds.
 
My plan is to change the thermostat for a new 180 just to see what happens. Ive been thinking about changing the water pump for a high flow one but havent done it yet. The heater not working and the bubbling I see from the radiator fill make me think air is getting into the system
 
First start at the beginning...

You did work on the cooling system.

Your troubles started after the work.

Go back and review your work

Many times after draining the rad it takes time to get the air out of the system.
 
Did you get the full 4 gallons of coolant back into the system when you refilled it after working on it?

Or did you only get 3 gallons in it and there is still air trapped in the block?

Air bleed thermostat:

Screenshot_20220430-164813_Gallery.jpg
 
Dillon Crowell said:
My plan is to change the thermostat for a new 180 just to see what happens. Ive been thinking about changing the water pump for a high flow one but havent done it yet. The heater not working and the bubbling I see from the radiator fill make me think air is getting into the system
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I always recommend a high flow 160 in anything above stock.
 
Once the air is worked out of the system, tune can cause overheating as well. Maybe add a bit more fuel at Idle. What cam? More timing can help. If those electric fans are aftermarket (i.e. not an OEM setup), they likely will be marginal at best for moving enough air. The aluminum shrounds some aluminum radiator retailers sell are known to be restrictive.
 
George Jets said:
Did you get the full 4 gallons of coolant back into the system when you refilled it after working on it?

Or did you only get 3 gallons in it and there is still air trapped in the block?

Air bleed thermostat:

View attachment 1716026781
Click to expand...
Just drill an 1/8" hole like in pic. I will bled out air before t-stat opens. I put a new Stant t-stat in my hardtop when I 1st built it and it ran hot. Thought it might be radiator. Turns out it was a bad (new) t-stat.
 
Heater not getting hot means you need a new heater core.
180 thermostat is just fine.
In regards to the new AC. Did the car already have factory AC ?
Reason being, AC cars, and Non AC cars use different pulleys and water pumps.
 
You could try flushing your heater core just be careful how much pressure you use. Flush both ways and see if anything comes out.Low coolant the heater will get cold 1st.
 
I have the same over heating issue with my LA 360. Starts off running at 210 and then creeps up to 230 at a stop sign in 70 degree plus heat at 2200 RPM or less. It has an Electric fan which I might change out if this 160 t-State change out doesn't work.

Have you guys had any luck with the super coolant products like Water Wetter?


https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...ne-water-wetter-super-coolant-12oz/486218_0_0
 
All that the thermostat does is set the low temp minimum.

160 sets the low temp to 160, 185 sets it to 185, etc.


Once the temp is above a particular temp the thermostat is fully open and the temperature is set by the rad, air flow, pump, pulleys, tune etc.

The cooling system is a SYSTEM, all the componants have to matched correctly to function properly.
 
Dana67Dart said:
All that the thermostat does is set the low temp minimum.

160 sets the low temp to 160, 185 sets it to 185, etc.


Once the temp is above a particular temp the thermostat is fully open and the temperature is set by the rad, air flow, pump, pulleys, tune etc.

The cooling system is a SYSTEM, all the componants have to matched correctly to function properly.
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Correct, however the cooling system is all about getting the water out of the hot engine as quickly as possible. The sooner the thermostat opens, the sooner that water is on its way out and into the radiator so the radiator can do its job. The sooner you get the water into the radiator, the sooner the radiator can cool it off. I also wouldn't use anything but a high flow thermostat. Everyone put high performance this and that on their engines, but when you start making recommendations for a high performance cooling system, they wince up and say "that's not how you're supposed to do it". I KNOW what worked for mine and it never, ever runs hot now.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Heater not getting hot means you need a new heater core.
180 thermostat is just fine.
In regards to the new AC. Did the car already have factory AC ?
Reason being, AC cars, and Non AC cars use different pulleys and water pumps.
Click to expand...
It had factory ac,I don’t know for sure about the 360 that was swapped in though. I have new pulleys but not the pump.
 
Another thing is when I have the radiator cap off and I squeeze the upper coolant tube to let any air out the heat will be warmer for a while and the engine seems to run cooler. But after a while driving it goes back to before.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Correct, however the cooling system is all about getting the water out of the hot engine as quickly as possible. The sooner the thermostat opens, the sooner that water is on its way out and into the radiator so the radiator can do its job. The sooner you get the water into the radiator, the sooner the radiator can cool it off
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Correct BUT after the temp the thermostat is fully open it makes no difference. So if it took 2 minutes to get to 160 vs 3 minutes to 185, at minute 4 it is 195 and both thermostats are fully open
 
Dillon Crowell said:
Another thing is when I have the radiator cap off and I squeeze the upper coolant tube to let any air out the heat will be warmer for a while and the engine seems to run cooler. But after a while driving it goes back to before.
Click to expand...
Replace your water pump with a Flow Kooler type unit.
 
If your heater core is blocked from sediment, the radiator could be also. Cross flow rads are the worst for this, not sure what model uses.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Correct BUT after the temp the thermostat is fully open it makes no difference. So if it took 2 minutes to get to 160 vs 3 minutes to 185, at minute 4 it is 195 and both thermostats are fully open
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Well sure, but the 160 is still open sooner. It makes a difference. I've seen it first hand.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I always recommend a high flow 160 in anything above stock.
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Just a question rusty will a 160 t stat be sufficient to prevent engine wear? In other words will engine get hot enough to not wear parts for running too cool? I hope I make sense in what I ask.
 
Here is a plan "B" for the guys that are overheating.

Not sure what your electric fans and flat shroud setup is? Those shrouds can actually block air flow through the radiator.

Screenshot_20221022-095723_Gallery.jpg


This worked on a performance 440 that was overheating with an electric fan and flat shroud.

Running Cool now.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
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