Recent content by 440 Mike

I'm new at this transmission rebuilding, but I finally have time to go through some 727's that I've had laying around for years. The history on this one is a B&M Transkit installed by a local "guru" more years ago than I can remember. Fluid was burned when drained. End play before disassembly...

Thanks. I checked out Transtar and they do have a plate made by Sonnax #S22747B. I'll have to see if it will work for me.

I'm going through a stock 727 valve body and found some corrosion. The aluminum cleaned up nice but the separator plate has some pits and etching after rust removal, I'm thinking that it's going to leak over to other passages. The shuttle valve was also stuck, but that cleaned up nice as well...

I could be wrong, but by looking at the picture of your instructions they seem to be the big block spool replacement mounts for a stock big block spool type K-member. These weren't made to work on a small block spool type K-member unless the DC modification was done.

Old school build with the CH4B and those beefy adjustable rocker arms (the newer ones were slimmed down a bit). There's a set of TRW forged pistons in there for sure. :)

Forget the hone, Scotch-Brite worked perfect.

What grit stones should I use to hone/touch up the servo bores?

Thanks! My FSM has a section that says: (2) .....position strut into lower control arm and tighten nut to 110 foot-pounds. (3) Position control arm shaft and strut assembly into the cross member. Install strut front bushing, sleeve, and retainer. Tighten nut finger tight only. I figured that I...

Yup, that's what I'll do. I have to rebuild the trans first.

I've installed all new front suspension components and need to know if the strut rods are supposed to be tightened before or after setting the ride height. I have the pivot shafts and strut rods loose at the moment with about 5 turns of preload on the T-bars. Thanks.

158 = 3.36 watts. 194 = 3.8 watts. 168 = 4.9 watts. Higher watts = higher heat.

Going well so far. Started out by checking the housing to circuit board trace ground screws, not so good. Removed screws and gave traces the De-Oxit and Q-tip treatment until good continuity on the meter. Next the bulbs and holders. One broken holder, replaced with spare. I'll replace all of...

Thanks for the replies. Found this thread to be helpful too. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/bench-testing-a-gauge-cluster.379879/

Heavy duty pump gear set?

Does anyone have a preferred way to bench test the instrument cluster? 68 Dart, I'd like to start by checking the lights and illumination. What power source would be best?