Recent content by 6T9QDA

I don't know why I remember the number, but in the early 80s those trunk panels were available NOS from Chrysler for $108. That's close to $400 in today's money, and that was when the cars were less than fifteen years old. They've always been crazy expensive.

Good point. There's no way to get cone washers under the sleeve nuts, but it might not be a bad idea to put them under the four center bolts.

Deck dowels too long or not seated?

I believe this is correct. Some of the available hardware kits come with more cup washers than you need, but information varies about using them on the middle four bolts.

I got the filter adapter back on and ran it for 30 minutes. No leaks and no signs of cross-contamination. It's an aluminum 90* adapter, and I used a fiber/cork/copper gasket set, P5249230, $16 from Amazon. I think it's good. Thanks for all your opinions and suggestions.

.750 solid roller

The oil came out as a uniform opaque tan. Didn't smell like coolant. I heated a little of it and the water evaporated off, the oil returning to clear amber. Kind of interesting to see it happen. Didn't smell like anti-freeze when it was hot, either. When I get the filter adapter regasketed...

Regular Performer with a 1406. Early 340 exhaust. Had the stock cam reground to xe250hr specs. I think the engine will hit the goals I wanted if I can get the rest of the car ready.

Good thought. I don't recall exactly, but it was red and the streaks are whitish. I'll do the oil change with UV and report back.

Yeah, that's probably sound advice. I think I'll change the oil and filter, and add some UV fluid to the coolant. Run it to temperature and see what I've got then.

Yes, I'll crack the drain plug and see what comes out first, but I'm not expecting much water as I can't see that the level in the radiator has gone down any. I thought about that UV leak detector fluid for cooling systems- it should show in clear oil, right? Maybe that would be the least...

A little backstory: my '69 Barracuda is a very long-term project that I work on when budget and enthusiam allows. About ten years ago I rebuilt an '86 318, mainly to get the roller cam and 302 heads for a mild cruiser engine. I installed it but didn't fire it because the car had no wiring...

To the OP, your big advantage is a wealth of knowledge right here at your fingertips. Most of us started playing with engines long before the Internet, and sage advice could be hard to come by. I got sucked in by sexy horsepower numbers and wound up with too much carb, too much cam, and not...

Back when 3D printing first became a thing, I read about some race team (about the only ones who could afford it) that was printing manifolds that would last long enough for a couple of dyno runs. Made changes and had a new one ready to test the next day. Got the design where they wanted it...

I bought a pair of '68 340 manifolds at Carlisle in 1995 for $175. That's about $350 in today's money. Given thirty years of diminishing supply, prices are right about where they should be. Stuff costs money.