Recent content by 76Scamp

It looks like every other modern replacement. I also no longer have the car. But, the picture of the box in the first post has the part number and where I purchased it from on it. Should be 1963-1976 like the factory unit.

Measuring with an ohm meter, it is 10ohms full, 78ohms empty. 28ohms is roughly half a tank if I remember correctly. The replacement senders you buy from anyone, Spectra included, are generally 0-100ohms and are linear. They will not work the gauge correctly. As stated, your gauge with that...

Well, I bought one that said it was for an AP6 Valiant, and it made the gauge work correctly.

If you look at his pictures, it's not just the seal contacting. The entire caliper is scraping the rotor. They are an interference fit. Definitely incorrect rotors.

I have no intentions of rebuild the calipers on the car. New, or reman replacement calipers are readily available for relatively cheap. About $85 with a $20 core each, or $86 each for new ones from Rockauto. The rotors have been the complicated part the whole time, but it appears SSBC still...

Well @JDMopar seems to be right, this is an old SSBC kit. Hard to tell through all of the dirt and paint, but it is there on the calipers. Thankfully, they do still sell parts for it. Expensive, but parts exist. I guess I'm down to pricing out which is the least expensive: convert the car to big...

I will look at that tomorrow. I am aware of what's needed for the Volare spindle swap. I did it on my 74 Dart Sport. Like I said, the front end needs rebuilt anyway, so I'll just buy new control arms; they are readily available on Summit. The problem I see with this, is if I were to need...

That looks exactly like what is on this car. So, it's all Mustang parts? Was there a thin wheel spacer that was part of that? There's an 1/8" spacer, I guess to make the wheel clear the caliper. And like I said, the center of the front wheels has been hacked out, but they appear to run true. I...

They are small bolt pattern. But after looking closer, this is either a really old conversion, or someone made different rotors fit. The center of both front wheels has been opened up (poorly) to accommodate the hub. Looking in the unused holes in the rotor, it was meant for something else, and...

I recently acquired a 1972 Dart that has the 4-piston Kelsey Hayes brakes. I'm wondering where I can get replacement rotors. Everything I've seen online is for the slightly older style with a separate hub that the rotor attaches to. This car has unicast rotors; no removable hub. Do replacements...

Okay, clutch update. The Borg and Beck pressure plate has broken; stress fractures around all of the mounting bolts. I called Brewer's to ask about their clutch kit. Not wanting to spend $800 and not be able to use the disc, pilot, and throw-out bearing, they said my best bet is to call their...

It doesn't do any good. One of the smaller companies that sell a sender, I called them to ask who makes it. The guy said they were made in house. When I asked if they were the correct non-linear, he said he's never heard of that, it's not a thing, and that I have no clue what I'm talking about...

Technically it can, but the gauge won't read correctly. Bend the arm so that when the tank is almost empty, the gauge indicates empty. It will just stay on full forever, and then start rapidly dropping once the level gets low enough to move the float. It's what I've done in the past so I knew if...

In the beginning post, I did state this was going in a 1974, so I figured that would carry through the whole conversation about the year range in question. That is what I have done in the past on other cars where I bought whatever was available as a replacement. I don't care about knowing where...

I've never seen this sender that you are showing as an original type. Only the one with the pivot in the middle. Even original ones I've removed are that middle pivot style. At least on the 74-76 models I've worked on. I would have to say it is. Using it in my daily with the factory gauge, it's...