Recent content by aracer01

I am satisfied with the Helwig hollow front bar, but still a fishy situation, So I bought the Firm feel Abody rear bar that is frame mounted and exactly like the 1974 factory. The # is SBRA 3/4" $415 with shipping. check it out.

Real ball busters to play with chain, cam etc. It was designed to heat up fast for 60's smog reduction. I have wasted too much extra time draining water and flushing out oil pan after accessory work. It runs fine, but a 383 would be better for the long run. I have a 440 in an E Body, so I know...

The real reason it is a POS is the water pump bolt holes are drilled through, water gets in oil pan easily and the head needs studs, on ends for exhaust. The distributor is back on the wiper motor. The fuel pump holes need special insert in bolt threads so oil won't leak and copper silicone for...

It puckered like a coffin. The non-perforated is not flexible or stretchy. I'll have to trim more at the cloth listing. 3" is not enough to get it to pull down, maybe 4-5". I'll try when it's 90* outside

Photos to prove ownership?

Today the engine runs fine. I had to put back the stock rockers, since advancing the cam 4* using the Mopar offset key, still put the valves in jeopardy. I bent a few hollow push rods, scared myself, changed one lifter on the worst of bent rods, twice on that valve. The cam advance on the Cloyes...

Your right, what I found out is that the outer edge is tucked under the stainless trim. The rear arm rest has the rear edge of the liner trim caught in a channel, so it is necessary to pry with a plastic tool the trim inward from the top edge. Starting at the back since it was looser. Paint...

I just came up for air, (fish humor). Thanks, I'm glad to see the clips. And after doing all you said, I pry down at the rear of the trim since they also seem glued on, with some wood paint stick, to see? Maybe hairdryer heat to ease the factory adhesive. I will take some pictures along...

I'm installing a headliner. There is one screw towards the front on the metal trim piece, it seems clipped on. This is what covers the headliner. I'm thinking if I remove the inside rear side trim, under the window crank the the trim piece will slide back, like the outside under door trim...

Summit has a roof insulation for $20 to fit a 60-70 Hard top ford, the blackened fiberglass is pattern pressed on one side for glue, it's two pieces 1"x 18.5" x 48". I don't have to remove the back window, the teeth are available with a smooth plastic tool. Who said to do that? ( a...

I have RMS front strut rods, and I noticed a sight pulling to the left, when on the gas. It reminded me of when I over tightened the stock ones, it would wander side to side at 20 mph. On the hyway at 70 mph it sort of bump pulls to the left. So I inspected the adjustment, and was easily able to...

Thanks for the help. It makes sense the tapered tip goes in first. I was over thinking the way it works. I see in 1968 manual the pointed bushing on a Valiant. I don't see how the originals did much, they were like hollow looking grease seals. If I wanted to soften the ride with RMS hime...

So, I get that the bushing can be pressed into the K-m. By hand using big cup washer and all thread rod, something to thread through to pull it in? Or can it be pushed in by hand?

Which way, in the picture does the bushing go? #1 top rod or #2 bottom rod. I threw in the original rubber ones, they did not have a center steel bushing as in service manual. Please add any installation procedure that you use. thanks