Oh wow! That is terrible. No wonder it was a top priority. I know because of my current gearing, mine is probably not going to be great, but I'm also switching to 3.73 hopefully soon.
Yeah, If it was a distinct frequency I'd try to go with the Helmholtz chambers if you like the way the exhaust sounds overall. I think the valved exhaust are cool but most of the time they are very heavy by the time you finish everything off.
It was really cool to see you out there! it looked good on the autocross. I got some pictures but I had to leave on a work trip directly after so haven't had a chance to go through them.
If the drone is at a very specific level have you considered doing a J-pipe to cancel it out? I would think...
Maybe by next year mine will be setup and I can bring it down with me and we can run them back to back.
But I really think this is one of those situations that there is just more than one way to do the same lap time. There is pros and cons to everything.
So I've never heard of people saying that the weight would change. Like Dion said, I think the concern has always been more of where the COC shifts the spring forces to the framerails from the TB crossmember. this would be the equal and opposite force of whatever weight transfer is happening. So...
So yeah, based on all this I should be able to get the ride height I want with just short bump stops. I want to be able to drive on the roads around here so I'm not looking to get it super low. Thanks everyone!
Shock bushings are usually pretty easy, you can probably do it with a large c-Clamp or a vice if you have one. You can use that and probably a large socket and you should be set. You could also use a bearing puller to press it out as that might be easier. I did that for my LCA bushings. Also...
Looks great! I am also very rural and was really worried about mice with mine. I had to store it and a few other cars over the winter and when I did I soaked several cotton balls with Pepperment essential oil and threw them in various places around the car. Come spring there were zero signs of...
Dang, that sucks...
Seeing as it is a real 340 block, it might be worth seeing if it can be welded.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine-block-repair
Or you can try the pinning: