Recent content by CopperheadDart

Look over the cage really well, if you're wanting to run it on the track. Make sure you fit, i.e. the hoop isn't too far forward, halo isn't too short, etc. Check the welds on the cage, look at cage requirements for the ET you want to go. Chassis work isn't cheap if you can't do it yourself...

Check your inbox @Mr GT

Sent you a PM

Have an NOS oil filter adapter, aluminum, still with the original box from Trans-Dapt. comes with bolt, gaskets, but is missing the threaded piece for the filter atachment. $90 plus shipping from Savannah, Missouri. Will be at the Mopars Invade MoKan race and swap next month, could deliver there.

Ah of course, you make a great point. I'm just over here trying to find a solution for a problem that doesn't exist haha. This is a track-only, 3/4filled block, just wanting to do everything I can to make sure I can regulate temp.

Right, machining the cover down is out of the question, as I have the midplate and front plate locations locked in. Machining the cover would cause the front plate to be too far forward, so I'm thinking about tig welding a dam around the coolant inlets and outlets so no coolant can bypass the...

I got to thinking about my front engine plate and water pump as I assemble my 340. The front plate will sandwich between the timing cover and electric water pump. I'm intrigued about possible turbulence or air pockets that may happen in the void in the cover where the mechanical pump impeller...

Sent you a message, thanks.

Set of 4 15x7 Rallye wheels, 4.5" bp. Comes with two center caps, no trim rings. They're mounted on some old but barely driven on BFG tires- 275/60s on the rear, 225/70s on the front. I can dismount if you don't want the tires. Asking $800 for the set, located one hour north of Kansas City, MO...

Just as the title says, I'm missing a single bolt for a Suregrip I'm building. Left hand threaded 3/8-24, 2 3/4" long. Holler if you have one laying around. Thanks!

This is a 1966 833, with 26 spline output. Everything you see in the first pic- Smallblock bell housing, clutch fork, Flywheel, tunnel hump, pedal set, ball studs, etc. The Z bar isn't correct for A body, but could probably be fabb'ed up to work. I may have an A body Z somewhere. I also may have...

Yeah, I'm a bit torn... Not wanting to spend three times that on an actual Fluidamper branded balancer. I have an ancient TCI Rattler I can use, I just don't like the sound it makes when you shut it down, people in the pits will be thinking I've got rods a knockin'!

Anybody use Speedmaster's fluidampers? https://www.speedmaster79.com/Mopar-SB-318-340-360-7.25-A-LA-SFI-Approved-Harmonic-Balancer-Damper?page=1 I'm tempted...

I found this pulley in my stash, hoping someone can tell me what years it came off of, etc. It's a three groove, cast iron, only markings are "C168" and "mapco". Bolt pattern appears to be asymmetric. Thanks for the help, and it's for sale if somebody needs it.

The Flying H near Odessa, MO is an hour from me, I'm excited to see how it comes along. I have a feeling it'll be really nice once they get it up and going. Not far from Topeka so I'd bet most of the Topeka regulars would make the drive.