Recent content by dkbug

No. I had my pinion CL 4 degrees below the engine/transmission centerline at rest. I figured for 4 degrees of axle wrap during acceleration. My issues came from having the engine/trans centerline 0 degrees with the drive shaft. For some reason, my clutch did NOT agree with that. I shimmed the...

No problem! Here is am image of what you want to look for. Bare in mind that the pinion angle needs to be the same as dive line angle UNDER LOAD. So 5-7 degrees lower is what MP Performance books say per RustyRatRod.

Everything is a new install. Motor and all. The conversion mounts do not place the engine at a perfect angle every time since the tolerance of these cars allowed for some errors. If the motor mounts are rotated ever so slightly, that can result in a large change at the tailshaft of the trans. I...

This is correct Rusty. I will add to this. Though the spec is 5-7, this wouldn't have made much of a difference until I put my foot in it. That 5-7 degrees is for the allowance of axle wrap to avoid trashing your ujoints. I think if I would have stepped on it enough with only a 2.4 degrees of...

Problem solved.... drive line angles were all jacked. Engine centerline and drive shaft had a 0 degree difference while the diff was 4 degrees down from the drive shaft. Shimmed the trans up about 5/8" and shudder is gone. Good thing I didn't yank the clutch.

Right now I have a Mcleod M360700 Pressure plate at 2750# and a M260620 double ceramic single sprung disc.

I am assuming you still need to yank the starter?

Its a big block car with 2" TTI headers.... Nothing is a 4 hour job.... If I swap the clutch out, I need one to hold 600+ HP. That perfection clutch will be toast in 1000 miles. Any other suggestions of clutches for high hp applications?

Also, I watched the video I posted. 99% of the noise that is heard is the hood shaking and the exhaust hitting the bottom of the car. The clutch doesn't make hardly any noise.

I'm not going to doubt you as you definitely have more experience than me, and you are likely correct because of said experience. However, I am going to ask for you to elaborate on your thought about why the fact that eliminating axle wrap essentially eliminates my original complaint isn't the...

This made a difference. I wedged a couple 2x4's between the snubber and the floor board and the shudder is virtually gone. What does this mean if my pinion angle is at -2* relative to the engine centerline?

I had the bottom end built in a machine shop and he did measure crank play. I do not have a recorded value, but he said that it was within spec. I trust my machinist quite a bit. Pretty stand up dude.

Well, that sucks. Pulling the trans out of this car is an absolute nightmare. Here is a video of how much it is shuddering. The shudder translates all the way to the wheels.

Here is what I started with. Sorry for the crappy representation, but its what I have to work with. All angles were read at the flange face both on the diff and the trans. Note: The 2.4* is POSITIVE 1* from the drive line angle. I threw some 6* shims at it to make it -5*. Didnt help, but...

Hello all, I am at wits end with an issue I have been experiencing for awhile, and I hope that I can tap into the wisdom from the experts here at FABO. Preferably, I do not want to redesign the car and throw a ton of new parts at it without being sure that we have found the culprit. There are a...