Recent content by Dodgeboy68

I am surprised to see the number of fuel pump options to do this. But I am finding it very difficult to locate any electrical bulkhead pass thrus. On post #2 what grommets did you use and where did you get them?

Has anyone successfully used an in tank fuel pump for an A body car that would fit into the tank from the sending unit hole? Roger

Dartswinger70 check out this float. It will fix your float problem.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOM17I?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 Roger

I have a set of these headers on my 68 dart with a 505. I have had them on the car for about 15 years now. I just checked if they had a part # and they don't. It has a tag on the #1 cyl tube that identifies it as a super competition header. It is a 2" tube header. I have about a quarter inch...

RGAZ, thanks for the information. I am going to do this swap and hopefully it will help.

Thanks for all the replies. It does't seem to b e a critical issue so far as operation of brakes are concerned, I will order a keeper and replace it the next time I have the MC off the car. Which might be never.

I could not find one of these when I replaced the master cylinder. So I assembled it without one but debating if I should find one of these and install it. Doesn't seem necessary. Just wandering if any others here are doing this? Roger

I don't know if you are asking me the question but I did not add a proportioning valve. My car has a what I think is a distribution block with the warning light sensor built in it. Just a ball that moves over to a set of contacts if there is an imbalance of pressure between the front and...

Installed the 15/16 bore master cylinder and this improved the braking. Increased pedal travel and now has a slightly softer pedal as expected. I will continue to evaluate and consider some additional improvements. Thanks for all the replys with good advice. Later Roger

Thanks for all that replied with suggestions. I went to the garage this morning and removed the current master cylinder so I could measure the piston diameter. It turns out it has a 1 and 1/32 diameter piston. It looks like I may be able to source a master cylinder with a 15/16 diameter piston...

This is about the 68 dart in the avatar. This was a slant six car i bought in 2007 and did a partial restoration on it. Put a 440 in it and converted all the drive line to heavy duty v8 stuff. Converted the light duty slant six brakes to a set of disc brakes that came out of a 73 dart. The car...

I have the same problem as the OP. Doesn't sound like the typical wind noise these cars have. Sounds like a whistle you hear from a party whistle. The noise is coming from the drivers side vent window or the rear view mirror and I can only hear the noise when the drivers side window is down and...

Here is the reason for drilling the plates. You have installed a bigger cam and now the engine idles with less manifold vacuum. To compensate for the lost vacuum you have to open the throttle up more to obtain sufficient idle rpm. This uncovers more of the transition slot that is cut into the...

The TQ is one of the most overlooked carbs in the muscle car world. I have used one of these on a Mopar m1 intake on my 512 stroker since 2008. I did the needle and seat mod as mentioned in your post. The only problem I have ever had with the carb is that it has leaked fuel around the gasket on...

Here is some information I left out the original post. The original Chrysler weatherstrip part number for the 2 door and 4 door sedans is 2663472-3. Part number for hard tops, convertibles, and coupes is 2663474-5. This seems to be the only one that re-pops are available.