Recent content by dpalsmeier

I believe the 2 bbl & 4 bbl rods are very close in length, with a slight bend in the 4 bbl rod. Photo of my 4 bbl rod; if I had same amount of threads exposed, bend might be only difference.

Did a quick sketch at work. I believe extending the kickdown lever in this fashion would mimic the 4 bbl bell crank. Fabricate a metal tab of similar width & thickness to the original lever. (Factory 2 bbl lever shown in red). You are compensating for moving throttle shaft forward, so use...

The two barrel throttle cable bracket is inboard, and aft, from the mounting hole, think smaller carb. Four barrel throttle cable bracket is outboard, and forward. Also not sure where on intake a DB4 has bolt hole for cable bracket. Should be further forward on a 4 bbl carb, as throttle shaft...

Wife asked for it on the Facebook forum and someone responded. Otherwise I would have tried to get someone to measure position of 4 bbl hole where back rod attaches, and fabricate that hook shaped part to bolt on. Use upper 5/16 hole and lower 3/16 hole on the two barrel bell crank. AMS new...

Also, some of these 65 273s already ride pretty low to the center steering linkage. Something to keep in mind when looking at the motor mounts and shims you removed. Firm Feel makes a nice dropped center tierod link, but it's a bit pricey. They also do nice steering box rebuilds to make car...

here is a better picture of what you are looking for. Might post a wanted here, and also on the For a body facebook group.

Service Book says the blocker valve prevents shifting to reverse over 20 mph. Small piston that moves under pressure, limiting valve travel. Anyone have experience with it sticking?

Cudamark, Looks like I have a sticking blocker valve. Book says above 20 mph, enough fluid pressure to move that valve and prevent putting car in reverse. Interestingly enough, my extra 65 904 transmission is missing that part. Can you lend any expertise? Wondering if a spring went astray...

On the extended rod, i felt that I was having to adjust length to improve kickdown response, to where I might be restricting my wide open throttle travel. That actual 4 bbl bellcrank looks like it would respond quickly to throttle, than have plenty of travel as the arm arc changes. Replacing...

One picture is my early attempt to stretch 2bbl kickdown rod. Others are factory 4 bbl linkage, on Offenhauser intake, and Holley Sniper. Note how the 4 bbl bell crank has different geometry.

Your throttle point on the 4 bbl carb is now forward of the two bbl throttle point. I initially tried stretching kickdown rod with allthread & coupling nut. Better solution was finding 273 4 bbl bell crank assembly which bolts to rear of LH Cyl head. Also correct rod to carb. From bell crank...

Thanks Cudamark! I have a spare tranny and shifter, which I dropped the pan from and watched linkage move tonight. Nice and precise and smooth. Mine feels awkward going into park; pretty sure I have trans or cable issues. I'll drop pan this weekend and see. I've followed the book procedure...

My 2 cents, the DB4's I have seen do not have the threaded boss for AC compressor brackets, is you have factory AC car. Offenhauser did have those mounting points, but they incorrectly located the throttle cable mounting point to match the 2bbl Chrysler manifold, instead of the 4bbl location...

Thanks! Any sense of what key words to search on?

Good morning, Do you have any fool proof ways to adjust the shift cable? Motor and trans are rebuilt, less the 200 miles ago. Recently lost "start in park" and Reverse. Spent half of Saturday adjusting; used light to check Park & Neutral, worked well Sunday. Tuesday morning wife has same issues...