Recent content by dr dodge

Good Morning, all already 75° outside I love winter in tx

I drove a 74 charger in houston traffic for years 60 mile round trip commute 400, Holley 780 vac sec, 2.9 gears in it if you drive it easy 25 mpg all day long drove the '72 dart the same commute for 3 years (drum brake car) about 20+mpg but the brakes, even though they work'd well were the...

Good Morning all, figured I'd share a photo a friend down under sent me a valiant ute, one of the last ausi mopars I'd love to have that thing!

heater motor speed resistance coils work well to drop the voltage on those ballast resistors work well on low current light systems too use a mid/med speed coil for high current stuff. and many instruments don't realize +/- swap other than the ammeter convert the generator/regulator, good to...

interesting. I really want to get rid of the window surround on the sedan there is no real door a pilar in the hardtop, it's the vent window assy (???) that maybe could be canted to fill the gap with re-mounting thanks for good observation between them (differences) dr

production, and pre engineered stretch w/o needing tightened, on a production line where the lazy guy took less than a minute to "hit the bolts" with an impact that didn't control torque so the moron didn't crush the axle to start

the distortion could be not from the ubolt tightening it was what the axle hit first. seem plenty of distorted axle housings stresses there usually from the concrete 2 seconds before that was just minding it's own business

the flat is thinner, and has more stretch/give torquing a round to the same value WILL distort the axle the u bolt only needs a bit of stretch as I said, never torque a round to the factory/flat spec

my old trash truck (5ton+) had the same bolts off and on so many times to change the overloads it's mild steel, soft, forgiving, it has to be, it can be heated red hot, very little strength is gone I made my own because a for 5 ton truck w/ 16-20" bolts was stupid $$$$ took a week, after workc...

wanna buy a bridge? lol, just kidding

all u bolts are mild steel distorted housings are an installer fail the flat oem ones are weaker than solid bar different torque specs for different products don't torq a round ubolt to the factory specs, use the ubolt spec and never crush a tube trailer ubolts of proper load rating are fine...

run a wire brush/die grinder over them first,run a tap (backwards) over them w/ plenty of lube next repeat till tap spins up by hand then clean lube, andput never seize on the threads well first (before breaking anything loose) break loose by hand, tighten, clean, repeat you will never break a u...

that is not realistic in the bounce wamp pry and pray of engine swaps no plate carries the load evenly. some bolts carry more than others

how many times do you stress a connector before it fails from lack of strength a plate offers no way to change it's angle vs equalizer just don't break a bolt, cascade the rest, and have a 400 w/ all accy, and trans end up wedged between the master cyl, firewall and the previously virgin exhaust...

the canvas, awaiting artwork. a very solid car. coastal window rot but pretty solid under it all and the ugly stuff trunk lip is nasty, and the window hole. I fixed it 10 years ago and it's back all gotta go to save it Life is good if the factory jack sticker survived 50 years dr