Recent content by ecw329

had the same problem when installing the MP front discs, the prop valve got stuck blocking off pressure to the rear brakes and made it impossible to bleed, ended up having to get a new prop valve which was not cheap to get the problem fixed, from there it took lots of bleeding with a VERY light...

had the same problem and it turned out the valve covers were not on tight enough....

triangulation...

same on my 318, it is a vapor lock issue, of you had a elec. fuel pump it wouldnt be a problem, as of now i have the edelbrock adapter from a spreadbore manifold to a square bore card (able 3/4" made of alum)... but i still bad the problem with an equivalent phenololic spacer, its the heat soak...

not bad at all with a cheap bender.... just dont mess up the old line too bad as it can serve as a guide to bending up the new one, also you might need a flare tool to put a proper fitting and flare at the apprpriate spt, but overall its actually pretty simple

been on the phone with him multiple times and he says its most likely a pressure problem, and we are thinking is it a pressure problem because of inqdequate volume displaced by the master to the rears because of the wheel cylinders being too large.... 15/16" instead of 13/16" as was stock on a...

the gm master that came with the kit was crap (fluid coming out of the back side of the piston) so we replaced it with a master for a 73' duster with front discs, so i guess you guys didnt have much luck with that combo valve either hu?? anyways just to get it straight yall did away with the...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=49062 could this also be a problem??? the pressure on the rears is too low even when completely bled, the front pressure is in spec, would smaller wheel cylinders help this??

Does anyone have any experience with these??? it makes it virtually impossible to bleed the rears because when it senses the pressure differential it blocks flow to that side. Also, it keeps sticking itself on one side closing one until we reset it by cracking the other side's...

anyone have any ideas, we are stumped a this point.....

the fix is easy, but hard to complete, we had to make our own tool to do it by cutting about an 1.5" piece of the appropriate allen key off and buying a low angle ratchet wrench to slide on it to get it in the small distributor hole, it is made more difficult by the risk of dropping the plug...

it only took almost a year of occasional weekend tinkering.....

well we figured it out, its 3/8" NPT if anyone needs to know, fishy68, and everyone thanks for the help on this one, the oil pressure is finally where it should be, at about 75 psi cold idle and spiking around 80 when revved....

it is a comp XE274H with the associated lifters provided with the cam/lifter package

by the way the one behind the oil filter is in....