Recent content by ElFin

One way to economize that makes sense is to buy a Dutra casting for the front 3, and use a stock manifold for the rear 3 exhaust ports, which retains the factory heat for quicker warmup times. You have to cut and cap the rear section of the manifold.

I would be interested.

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130760_1.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130755.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130766.jpg

I'll try to post photos.

I was able to install the roll bar without cutting into the side trim panels, but then I ended up drilling a hole in the side panels so I could through-bolt the rear door pillars to the roll bar. The bolts go inside a piece of 3/4" pipe that I notched to fit the roll bar. The car was a...

I also made an over elaborate shock tower brace.

I installed a 4-point roll bar on my 67 cuda convertible. We tied it into some perches welded outboard of the sub-frame connectors. It gave me a good anchor point for shoulder-belts. Also bolted a piece of steel pipe across the front below the radiator support at the front of the frame rails...

Here in the Northeast, you just get a five-gallon bucket of foundation coat, and paint it on with a brush. Just kidding, kind of. My usual routine is wash, dry, maybe some brake cleaner if greasy, rust converter spray, primer, paint, undercoat. I'm going to try the Tractor Supply paint ASAP.

'73 or '74 Plymouth Valiant, perhaps.

If you use a large-bore manual master cylinder, the effort needed isn't too bad. I have the small-bore one because I like to make life difficult for myself.

A short school bus avoiding getting cut off by a minivan by going up on the guardrail, straight up in the air like a killer whale. A VW bug completely on fire on a dark road in West Virginia, the week Elvis died. Had that BBQ smell.

Large bore MC will require less braking effort from the driver. FYI, the difference between drum and disc brake MC's is the residual pressure valves. The valves were 10 psi for drums and 2 psi for discs. The older style wheel cylinders for drums required this in order to keep them in position...

Sub-frame connectors will do the most. Up front, you could just bolt a couple of struts between the firewall top flange, and the fender bolts, as was done in some 70's cars. I welded up a shock tower brace that was my usual brand of overkill, and maybe heavier than necessary. I also added a...

That don't sound right.

I used a Raybestos MC36426 from Rockauto.com 5% discount if you write this in the "how did you hear about us" box: 63216824387085 . It's $68 list, but is new and not a rebuild. I also used one of these distribution blocks in my A-body, and it has been good so far. I haven't done an extreme...