Recent content by fonzy

ok, decided to try a new distributor...no more ping, not certain if the springs were worn, or the shaft play had anything to do with it..but it's gone after being replaced. timing has been adjusted and now we are just driving it to get a gauge on fuel usage...woot!:blob:

does anyone know the amount of shaft play i should have in my 3874598 distributor? apparently there is what looks to be about an 8th of an inch of up and down play. that seems excessive to me. i guess i should also describe why we are looking at the distributor. we have been experiencing a...

Ok..it may still be some of the other issues people have suggested. However I have also noticed that the heat riser isn't closing...it appears as though the spring(not the heat activated spring) isn't pulling it closed, it looks to be missing something to pull on. Now, could a fully opened heat...

CAP system is the Clean Air Package, it has a distributor control valve..which is what i bypassed. The vacuum line is going to the carb port. I plugged the manifold port.

we also noted the carb mounting bolts were loose initially, we tightened those down, but still have this issue.

Ok, so...we were bypassing the CAP system on the 66 slant 6. I thought it would be as simple as hooking the vacuum advance straight to the carb vacuum port and adjusting the mechanical advance and then the vacuum advance. We also blocked the intake manifold vacuum port. Here is the issue, we...

I think I am on facebook too much...I was looking for the like button to your response. Thanks though, this is interesting...I may just have to give it a shot.

ok, a couple of questions. Is the dash pad on my valiant the same as a 63 valiant pad? it appears to be in the few places i have seen it...but i want to be certain of attachment points and such. Also, how is the pad attachted? is it just the 2 screws on each end? or is it also glued in the...

if you have the paint code(look for your fender tag, year of car and google mopar codes for your year) you can go to oreilly's and get a spray can made through them, i think it was 22$...i was very pleased. from what i've done so far prep is everything for painting...don't rush the prep.

Anyone have experience doing this? I tried using the moldable tack stuff but it's a pia and sticks more to me than the door. Anyone have a better alternative? By the way I just painted the inside of my doors and am pleased with my results! I wish I would have taken a before and after pic.

Thanks guys..so a little rust isn't going to be a problem?

Ok..I've decided on my plan of action on the floor pans, I'm going to spot weld them in and seal em up, I've got a weld through primer I'll use on the welding areas. My problem is the hat channels, I've got a soda blaster I used to get most of the surface rust off with, should I go ahead and use...

They didn't give me a hard time, but it has caused quite the vibrant discussion on other forums. I am just trying to weigh the pros and cons to everything before I commit to any one way or another.

i was leaning that direction clifftt, its the fact that the glue would make a good water seal and corrosion resistance too that really makes me want to research a little more.

p.s. this is going to be a driver, and i don't need it to be "show" quality, but i do want it to last.