Recent content by GearGrabber

heh thanks woofer, one thing ive noticed as the car gets faster and faster (same time my wallet gets lighter... weird huh) its a lot harder to control when the tires do break loose.

most every car i see at our local track runs mickey thompson or goodyears... not too many hoosiers out this way. my dad and I have been running mickys for years.. hard to argue with the results weve gotten from them, and from a company thats been around the block a few times :)

check your initial timing, a lot of times poor idle and cruising performance comes from not having enough initial timing to create the vacuum signal the carb needs to correctly meter the fuel. hook a vacuum gauge up anywhere on your manifold and increase your initial timing till you stop seeing...

my car about a week after i first picked it up... couple of 24 inch pizza cutters i had to get rid of!

i have one of his older version 750 mighty demons, i called and gave BG all the specs for my car when i ordered it 5-6 years ago so it came almost perfectly calibrated right out of the box... one of the best buys ive ever made! only change i had to make was to up a jet size or two as i run at...

its a 71, in this pic it has a still iron headed 360, 727 and 8 3/4 wth 3.91s. this was not too long after i got the car. Now ive got that same 360 with edelbrock heads 1.6 roller rockers, weiand tunnel ram with dual holley 600s, and a much bigger solid tappet cam, along with a 4 speed and...

well ya made me feel a little better :)... i was thinking id be closer to 4k into it. Still i think it will come out a little more with ladder bar brackets and coil over mounts but not too bad! tyty

mopardude i was curious for that price, did you get the aluminum support cover, billet yoke or any other extra options?... just trying to get an idea as im only a couple months off of ordering mine too

heres a thread i found while looking a while back with some part numbers and ideas for ya http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=136483&highlight=manual+crankshaft

Hey, i've got a full transmission package if your interested. i need to do some more checking on whats in it for parts as i just got it out of my car and it came with the car so im not sure internally whats been done. it does have a 3600 stall 10" converter, manual valve body, trans brake and...

damn i wish you werent all the way across the country... ive got two 450's id trade in a heartbeat for a good stroker shortblock!

these may not be quite what your looking for but i had a set of steelies made for my car a while back in SBP.. 15x10 with like 6 in backspacing should fit perfect on a stock duster rear (8 3/4) with the springs moved inboard. pm me if your interested.

just a tailshaft swap away... this is going to be a track only car so i was just thinking if i scattered the internals on one i could at least swap the tailshaft over to the spare to make the next weekends race. the only reason i asked the question was to find out how involved it is to swap...

im not sure, i just assumed the new gears and rebuild kit would amount to a lot more than i could even come close to making off the b body unit, and i was also thinking itd be nice to have a backup transmission later down the road when the car gets put back together.

So im about halfway done collecting parts for my 4 speed swap and i've picked up 2 non OD 833s. one codes out to be a 73 b/e body the other is a 71 a body unit. the a body unit has a blown 2nd gear and the b body one was gone thru about 10 years ago and sat on a shelf since then. My question is...