This thread - I read as much as I could stand - is full of the usual bad ideas.
In those pics, I don't see any sign the valves were hitting the pistons. Maybe they were, but it doesn't look like it. And of course, even if they were it would have nothing to do with overheating.
Do people...
I actually do agree...people who turn the steering wheel without the car rolling are poor drivers. These are the same people who have cars that break and/or require repairs....my cars never, ever break. I've also never worn out a set of brake pads in under 100K miles.
As for the idea that...
I certainly don't care what someone does to their car...but I do think too many people seek to modify their car to the point where it no longer even represents what a classic Mopar is. The big, thin steering wheels of the 60's, and the properly assisted steering, is part of the character of the...
I get all that, but we're not talking about cars that are fighting for pole position at Indy. The average 55 year old Mopar does very little but cruise around town and the occasional highway trip. Few people need their A Body to drive (and have the miserable ride) like a 2023 Corvette. This...
I never understood why people would want power steering that is hard to turn...the one finger steering is where it's at. I don't want to 'feel' the road. It's not a boob.
When I changed my original PS pump (Federal) to a Saginaw, I instantly noticed an increase in steering effort. Still...
Yes, the arms travel up/down very smoothly and easily....that's one reason I used them as I knew I would be doing a lot of alignments and with bushings it's sometimes tough to get good repeatability.
Yes, I had to trim the mount bracket a little....if someone is opposed to this, the arms can...
Yes, the Wilwood kit is made for the 9" spindles. In 40+ years of driving these cars I have never seen one break. We used to off-road the old 65 Barracuda back before using trucks became popular....hit bunches of potholes, etc. Never had an issue. But now that you've said it....it'll probably...
I found a good deal on a Wilwood disc kit for the 68 Valiant....so the trusty 9" drums had to go. While I had the car apart for that, I decided to also rebuild the front end as it was the all-original 55 year old pieces....still working well.
With all the talk about caster, I decided to make...
I made those 20 years ago....plus even (way) better the TransLift. This is a device that allows you to work on a transmission at various heights, not a device for picking up men who think they are women. With the TransLift, you can load and unload the trans from the jack, and you can work on 4...
There's always the possibility the block is faulty...poorly machined or debris left in it. On any mass produced part, a certain percentage will have flaws. I'm guessing, too, that these are made in China which doesn't help matters.
I used to buy stainless lines...then one I day I realized they were one of those 'upgrades' in the hot rodding world that is actually a downgrade.
Yes, they will last forever (assuming that today's SS which is probably made in China is actually to spec). But other than that, they are...
Because the system is once again in balance. The front brake pressure is zero and so it the rear (or very close to it). The reason the light comes on when you apply the front line lock is there is imbalance - the front lines have pressure and the rear have none.
That tool is a cap screw with the end machined a little lol. Notice that is says it only keeps the piston centered but does not center it.
But the centering of the valve doesn't affect normal bleeding...only if you are using a pressure bleed system.