Recent content by J Glenn

.

I used US Cartool subframe connector after considering making my own. They are a very nice product, but it took a whole lot of cutting and grinding to get them to fit the contours or *my* floorboards. I had replaced the front floor boards, not the rear. So the floor contours were not...

has the damper with the timing mark moved?

If you are willing to spend the money, this type of flare tool works great:. Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool

Do you have power steering now? If not you need the pump bracket.

Year of the vehicle

No video, but i can spin both wheels with my slant with a 3.10 (ford) rear-end. But only if the brakes are on!

I had to modify my 1965 Valiant to use PST upper control arms (I'm pretty sure those are what I used. Straight tube-design?) Someone provided an image earlier where you have to cut the mount. (Not sure if the instructions said to add reenforcements to replace the metal you are removing, but...

What brand?

I got tube UCA and they required modification of the mounting location (cutting and welding). Not all require that, but be sure to know before you buy.

I think a simple plate would work pretty good to block most of the heat (assuming you don't drive your slant when it is cold outside). But imagine the exhaust manifold flow is uglier than need-be. I used to have a /6 exhaust manifold where someone chopped off the heat-riser and welded it shut...

And by "this" block-off plate, you mean? (Did you mean to attach a picture?) I'm curious about this thread because I've been thinking of blocking-off the heat-riser... I'm assuming people do such things..

I'd call Wilwood and ask their opinion... they do have good tech support. Unrelated to Wilwood, I recently had some sticky caliper pistons on my 4-piston Tundra calipers and I would have sworn the master cylinder was going bad... the pedal went almost to the floor. Still makes no sense to me...

I know you said you bench bled it, but are you sure you used the full travel of the pushrod? Did you use the Wilwood bench bleeding lines or make your own? Its not an MC size issue. You've gotta have air in there...

If I toss my slant back together, am I going to find that these marks are from the connecting rods hitting the thrust bearings? (See photo.) I'm assuming so... I'm just too lazy to put it back together to confirm, at this point. If so, is this normal?!