Recent content by jmanhoff

Hey guys I’m back again, I’ve been mucking around with different bleeds and such. I ended up going back to a 28 IFR and a 70 IAB, and I’m still dealing with a stupid rich idle and lean transition, so my next step is to go with a .086” TSR (up from .082”) and a .073” IAB. My screws are only 3/4...

Okay small tinkering update. I put in smaller IABs just to see what the affect would be. (.070” to .067”). Idle screws are now about 7/8 of a turn out, I got there by starting at 1 turn out on all 4, then slowly turning one by one until it started to idle down, and backed it off a quarter turn...

So just for clarification, you start by leaning out the screws until it idles down, and then back it out until stable. Then you go rich until it idles down and then back lean until it’s stable? Wouldn’t that leave it richer than it needs to be or can you almost immediately hear an rpm change? I...

The idle is very stable and to my ear sounds healthy. I can’t smell raw gas, AFR sits around 12.8-13.1.

Just finished a short drive home, a lot of 45mph steady cruise but there’s a couple lights on the way. Cruise is pretty stable now, no surging. I still can kind of hear a bog when I give it a bit of throttle and the vacuum drops to about 10.5 or so, but it’s not as bad as before. I did have a...

Alright so the sun sort of came out so I let the engine warm up and messed with the idle screws. What I did was started 1 turn out and slowly turned them in until it bogged and then backed it off. Each ended up about 3/4 of a turn out, and I added a smidge of a turn on each because I heard a...

I replaced every bleed/restrictor on my carb so I know they’re all the same and match side to side etc.

Gotcha gotcha, that makes sense. Basically close but not identical is the goal

Yeah I know the dual planes are a little goofy but probably will stay within 1/4 of each other. Am I right in my assumption that if there is any deviation between the screws it would be front to back because the primaries are open further than the secondaries so they need slightly more fuel?

I’m not sure how long you’ve been poking around at this forum, but I did swap from a brawler 650 to a Holley 650. When I did the swap, it did run better. The brawler was super inconsistent hence the swap. I still do have it though it’s at my parents house. The brawler kept “losing” its idle...

If I had the money to try another carb I would but that’s not going to be on the budget for a long time lol. Although running a 650 on a very mild 360 magnum seems to be universally agreed on. Holley recommends it and seemingly everyone who I’ve talked to both on this forum and in person has...

I’m gonna go through that post again tomorrow when my brain can absorb information lol. Still need to take a look for my springs and stuff for my dizzy as well

So my cam setup is almost stock. From what I’ve read it’s basically a strong towing cam that happens to have more top end. Compression is almost bone stock, barely higher if at all. It’s a 20 over piston and the block was decked for true. I’m assuming for truly getting the timing curve dialed...

I do the vacuum idle tuning because that’s what I’ve heard everywhere basically. Everyone says turn the screws for peak vacuum and then back them off a bit for cushion. But to summarize (it’s actually similar to what my dad told me he did back in the day.) and correct me if I’m wrong. You start...

Okay I have a follow up then. Well a couple lol So for tuning WOT via the plugs, I’m aiming for a brown/tan but not white and not black/wet color? And let’s say I get my idle happy at peak vacuum, but my plugs read lean on the low speed cruise. Should I open up the TSR or close up the IAB and...