Recent content by jpharley

Thanks, problem solved. The motor mount plates were bent...wow! 1/4 inch steel. But I think the source of the evil was a broken trans crossmember. It allowed everything to torque to the point of bending the mount plates and shifting the motor back 1/2 inch. New plates, new mounts, new...

Good photo, that helps!

I’ll take a look at that, thanks.

I understand the purpose being to stop rotation. My think is that it may have rotated then when it was off the rubber was pulled back. I want to keep it down where the weight is on the mount. Thanks good ideas.

I do have torque boxes and frame connectors with just a 6 point roll bar. I wanted to keep is 68SS authentic so no motor plate. Yep it was pretty obvious something was wrong when it happened. I would like to get a torque strap on the thing before I have another issue. However, I think the...

I have a L023 clone with an Indy Aluminum 426 and an A-833 4 spd. Somewhere along the line, I had a violent launch that shoved the engine back 1/2 - 3/4 inch. Bent the exhaust hangers, broke the trans cross member and slightly buckled the quarter panels on both sides. Ouch! I'm adding...

Lot's of confusion on the engine paint. I agree with those saying Race Hemi Orange. My paint store went through archives for me and found documentation that Race Hemi and Omaha Orange were identical. They mixed my Omaha Orange. Right or not...it is orange and no one has questioned it.

Thanks, I actually did the pedal mod when I originally installed the Hemi and 4 speed. It was indeed 5 1/4 but is a full 6 inches now, as per Post #7. In my case the pushrod being lengthened does give me a bit more travel. It takes the slop out at the top of the rod and does not change the...

Okay, the pedal the rod from the clutch pedal mount down to the z bar was made longer. I realize everything being equal this would only serve to change the bottom end pivot point but it also took some of the lost motion out. The pedal now sits higher by a 1/2 inch. Which gives me more throw...

Hi guys, I lengthened the clutch push rod so that it now gives me another 1/2 inch of pedal. I found the Z-bar was contacting the headers when I tried to get travel down below. I buttoned it up and it does feel better and let’s me get full disengagement. Have not driven yet. Missing driver...

Thanks for your reply HemiDenny. I did not think there would be any way to get the Hydro clutch to work on a stock firewall car. Thanks for your input. Is there any way you could get a photo of the Butch Leal Duster setup? I have a Quick Time bellhousing and the TTI Zbar...just not much throw...

It is a McLeod Twin Disc, Diaphragm style. The parts are all correct. TTI headers, therefore modified Z Bar from TTI. The engine actually torques when the pedal is depressed. But the issue is that I can't get enough throw to release the clutch with any free play on the pedal, the TO bearing...

Having trouble with clutch and trans but it's still a hoot! Jim