Thank you. I did the calculation and I am thinking I need the dish to run pump gas. I calculated 9.4:1. I don't really want a radical cam to run higher compression. I am still in the planning stage so I can change now if I get better information. I just know I want the long rods and short...
Silvolite 1292-STD. 1.571" CH plus 7.005 rod gives me 8.576" compared to stock which is 1.750 CH plus 6.699 gives me 8.449. I'm .150 in the hole now. I am not trying to get zero deck, no point in that. But if I needed to cut the .024 to get zero deck I still have room for a 8mm (5/16' .3215)...
At the risk of being a heretic or something worse, I'm back with more knock sensor postulations. I did a bit of real measuring of that internal rib above the center core plug and discovered (duh) that it contains a head bolt hole. But the head bolt hole is way deep. So deep that I am going to...
Thanks guys. The guy I bought my Haltech ECU can do all the tuning. He does this full time. His recommendation was right below the head in the middle of the blick. I think I found a web inside of the block that is wide enough and thick enough to drill and tap for a small bolt.
I hope to not have ehxaust noise with Dutra Duals and I am running hydraulic lifters. I am seriously considering making a mount in that center freeze plug hole.
My guess is that if there is going to be detonation it will be at the top of the stroke and make the piston rattle against the cylinder wall. My 1992 small block chevy has the knock sensor screwed into a water drain hole, but on the slant the water drain hole is next to the camshaft.
I want to use a knock sensor with my Haltech ECU. There doesn't seem to be a good place to put one. I'm using a hydraulic cam, but the consensus seems to be that you should avoid the side of the engine where the lifters are. I saw somewhere that someone mounted the sensor under the upper motor...