Recent content by mopower76

It’s really getting old…

So since everything seems good… Back in the air to once again replace the oil pan gasket!! This time I had it out in about an hour, getting this job down! It’s a blessing in disguise really, the oil looked pretty clean coming out but when I got the pan down there was quite a bit of sludge and...

I did exactly that yesterday morning and cleaned every post associated with the harness and dielectric greased all connections. Sanded all grounds and replaced/repaired all loose connectors. I’ve got a great collection of factory plugs so I even added a few to make removing/servicing easier...

I rechecked everything and all seems fine except that the cranking voltage at the coil -- is only 10.3. Otherwise it runs exceptionally well! So far everything works except for the power windows and cruise (needs Speedo cables(?) AC needs recharged and is still R12 but it is actually trying...

The shaft turns freely while cranking and everything under the cap looks like new.

IT RUNS!!! But why??? I jumped the positive from batt + to coil + and it fired instantly… I removed the jumper while running and it stayed running. Now it is starting every time without hesitation… What???? So what is inconsistent?? And it also has fantastic OIL PRESSURE!!!

I just added an extra ground to the control box. All readings are correct from 67Dart273 suggestions except for cranking at battery, the voltage drops to 10.7-10.3 using 2 different batteries that are both out of running vehicles and both test between 13.3-13.8 volts.

Ha! Ha! No, everyone at all of the parts stores looks it up and asks if it’s a “Lebron” or Ben after I say it’s a 1979 Chrysler Lebaron… So the name stuck! My back up.name for it is Dirty G (Dirty Grandma!) be a of how funky it was when I picked it up. This is yet another late model Mopar...

This is really great diagnostic information!!! Thanks for posting!! I’ll be going over all tomorrow morning. It was a Lean Burn but was converted to MP electronic by the original owner. (Done correctly) and does retain the ballast resistor.

I get that a points dist will (in theory) make it start and run but I’d rather dig deeper and find the root of the problem. Plus I really don’t want to buy a points dist for it. I’ve got at least 4 Big Block Dizzys and 3 good MP BB… No small block.

This is a thread in the middle of a 0 oil pressure conversion… This is a 1979 Chrysler Lebaron (Diplomat) 318/904 MP electronic Converted from electronic, spark control, and was a running and driving vehicle. Long story short- I lost oil pressure on maiden voyage after sitting years, changed...

So I’m going to start a Lebron No Start! Thread since this one is (Hopefully was!) about oil pressure. As soon as I can figure out this no spark issue I’ll know if the oil pressure is going to stay up or not! It does show 20-25psi while cranking! Fingers crossed it stays there when it...

New update… Oil pan leaking at the rear seal… looks like it pushed towards the trans… This thing really doesn’t want me to drive it…

Nope, you are correct! MP Elect converted.

My buddy just suggested doing just that!