Recent content by mygasser

place a wanted ad on here, someone will cut that piece from a parts car and post it to you i'm certain. neil.

then if it's not ngk get the ngk equivalent :thumbsup:

nice one, bit like mike finnegan with his 2jz into 68 charger swap. Google Search

best extend the bump stops down closer to the axle then, if not the shocks 'will' bottom out before you reach the bump stops. at that point you won't be doing the shocks any favours. anyway, think about the ride height extension/compression thing. does suspension tend to have more compression...

better safe than sorry :thumbsup:

the 383's 4.25" bore helps too compared to a 408. neil.

looks like a little more shielding gas may help. welding new clean steel is always easier/neater but get into old bodywork and it's definately 'dirty' in comparison. get it as clean as possible before welding as always. neil.

you made a neat job of those :thumbsup: i have one of those tools for joining existing lines in situ. i use one of these for all new builds including fuel lines too (up to 3/8"). Brake Pipe Flaring Tool 3/16"" DIN SAE Imperial Triumph MG Austin Made In The UK neil.

here's one :thumbsup: having gone back through my build it reminded me i did roll the arch lips up but that only gained i guess 1/2" at most. i'd fitted new ss rear leaf springs which makes it sit up at the rear. the front's high as i'd rolled it outside to turn it round ready for installing...

you could fit an exploder 8.8 axle, much cheaper than an A body 8 3/4 for sure. buy a second short side axle shaft when you pick up the axle, or a new one from rock auto at $100 ish. then cut the long side of the casing down 2 7/8" to match which also centres the pinion. you end up with the...

i made my own mounts so didn't use the schumaker ones either, lol. when looking into the swap (in my case 383 into s/six 68 valiant) several here had mentioned it. :thumbsup: neil.

yep i had to trim the mount back almost to the slot for the insulator stud. once plated in it's just as strong though. the trimming is in the schumaker instructions so they do tell you. neil.

don't forget most suggest 1/2 to 3/4 turn from zero for hyd' tappets but that's most always with a stud mount factory rocker. with 273 rockers, like most aftermarket rockers the adjustment is at the pushrod. 1/2 turn at the stud will be more like 3/4 ish at the pushrod. basically you need less...

i've always cut and flared my own hard lines using pipe on a roll. flaring tools that give nice neat flares are pretty cheap these days as are the fittings and pipe. neil.

if the whole car's plumbed with flexi lines you will notice a softer pedal. i worked at a rally car supplies shop/warehouse and they discouraged customers from using all stainless braided flexi. neil.