Recent content by RetroDude

"79? You have earned a beer....maybe two..." I agree!!!

I'm happy to report success!! I installed a replacement booster and, now, the car stops!! I had to replace the push rod linkage between the brake pedal and the booster. I never want to do that, again. I'm 79 and not as bendable as I used to be. I removed the driver's bucket and laid on the...

Can you suggest one?? Thanks in advance. I did get a quotation for rebuilding my booster from Brake Materials and Parts, Inc. and it made my head hurt!! $345 plus $40 shop fee plus additional parts (if needed) plus shipping both ways. Holy crap!!!

I really appreciate all of the tips. I do think the problem is a bad booster. The next problem is finding a correct replacement. There's about a zillion to choose from and few provide detailed specs. I'm thinking about replacing the MC (again) with one for manual brakes (larger diameter...

Thanks for the tip. I've been undecided on what action to take for some time. I will follow your advice and address the booster issue and see what happens.

Very interesting following this thread as I have a similar problem as DodgeBoy. The car is a '70 Dart Swinger 340 with factory power front discs. When I got the car, it had NO brakes (pedal to the floor). I installed a new M/C. Now, the pedal is high and hard, but, the pedal pressure...

FWIW, when I did a Wilwood front disc conversion on my '70 Dart, I had a spongy pedal after several sessions of bleeding. A mechanic buddy saw my frustration and told me to bleed the rear brakes, first, then, do the front. That was it. Now, I have a high and hard pedal and the line lock holds...

Could be a stuck horn relay. Disconnect it and see what happens. Your problem is interesting. I'm chasing a similar issue with my 1970 Dart Swinger. There is a 170 milliamp parasitic draw which is very elusive. Good luck to both of us!!