I put a 22" cold case in my 70 duster and tried putting a mech fan/clutch in. Would not fit at all (hit the core). Pulled the rad and went 26" 3 core champion. Worked great with contour fans.
I had a Champion in my 70 Duster and was able to put on a fan (OE style with lots of pitch compared to aftermarket) and the 2947 short Hayden clutch. It fit, but not by much. I modified a shroud I got from Mancini Racing to fit. Cooled just fine. My current Duster has the 3 core Champion...
The CC radiators have a very fat core (3" on the one you linked to) so you may have problems with clearance between the core and water pump snout. I sure did, and had to go to a Champion radiator which has a 2.5 core thickness.
The solenoids do not have the power to increase the throttle by themselves. They only work when first energized then when the user opens the throttle it will keep the idle higher until it turns off.
Width of the radiator is not as critical as the core thickness. One of the things you need to consider is how thick the core is. The Griffin at 2.5 is pretty fat. Our A bodies have very little room between the radiator and the water pump snout. Space is a premium that needs to be considered.
That AAW wiring kit is a good one. Concurrent with that installation on my car I moved my battery to the trunk and upgraded the alternator to a 100A power master. I used a 1/0 cable for both the plus and neg battery runs. I ran the neg cable to the pass side cyl head and ground cables to...
Wow, I need to look at that. When looking at the setup it seems the header needs to come loose but I need to try what you're saying. Not that I want to yank that starter!!!
I've had very good success with Champion radiators, more so than with others (i.e. ECP and Be Cool). I have a 3 row (.75 each) Champion 26" on my 1970 Duster. The overall height and width fits just fine but I had to drill holes in the mounting flanges & a couple in the radiator support for it to...