Recent content by scudzuki

I just don't trust modern flat tappet cams and lifters. Converting my 82 Ford 302 to hudraulic roller this week. Roller cam lobes have more aggressive lift profiles so you get better flow with the same duration vs a flat tappet lobe profile, a bonus. I imagine I'll rebuild the 340 in my Swinger...

I already beat you at that. You replied "I don't know". You're making my point for me. Goddamn you are one STOOOOOPID MFer. Did you even graduate from high school?

There's ONE factor to consider for an approximate (what I inquired about) factor, spring rate, unless 72 Darts came off the assembly line with varying adjuster bolt location and pitch. It's math fellas, math does not lie, is not political, but apparently upsets a lot of people.

You're shitting me. Emojis IS stooping to a level. You're pathetic, and I'll beat you in a debate on ANY topic. Pick a topic you moron.

They may not know where to put an oil filter for easy access, but they definitely understand spring rate and mechanical advantage. Why don't you design a car since you know so much? You guys really like to pile on, huh?

You are such an insecure child, it's obvious. I rebuilt my first ICE when I was 14 and my first V8 when I was 20 (39 years ago), using only a book. I am a better mechanic than you as well, AND I can admit when I don't know OR I'm wrong. Grow up you pathetic little boy.

Yep, I planned on it.

So I guess you'd just skip those steps? Just because you don't know doesn't mean someone else doesn't. If you had nothing to contribute why did you respond at all? Obviously I can randomly twist the adjuster until I get it where I want it, but I don't go into any job with at least a few...

Yep. When I'm troubleshooting an issue with a client's computer or network I've never seen before, I do a Google search because someone somewhere has seen and resolved it before, and I don't have to spend hours and hours trying different fixes. Once I find the solution (sometimes I have to...

I removed some new looking Calvert 90/10 front drag shocks from my 72 Swinger. That helped decrease the unloading of the front end when accelerating which made the car not so fun to drive. I replaced all the shocks with Rock Auto's best non-adjustable shocks for the car, KYB Gas-a-Justs, and...

I staggered the wall outlets between circuits to spread out the load. I plumbed my air lines in copper, soldered together each "wall" on the floor and assembled the parts with sharkbites in the corners. I ran 2x6s horizontally between studs in 2 locations to form boxes for in wall speakers and...

I NEVER wrote the battery was NOT charging when the ammeter reported 40A. It was not charging the battery at 12.3V as measured at the battery while running, when the ammeter reported maybe 5A. The ammeter returns to zero when the car is shut off. Someone suggested perhaps the meter was "stuck"...

Before I bought my current DMM (a Klein) I bought a clamp on meter then discoverd that it only measured AC amps through the clamp. I returned it as I never need to measure AC A with the clamp. Guess I am gonna need one that costs more and reads DC A through the clamp after all. Again, band...

No I'm talking about the ammeter in the dash. The ammeter that read +A when the batt V was 12.3 (discharging) because the alt field +V was at 10. 5 V. What am I to believe, the ammeter that whose reading has never reflected what I can measure elsewhere, or my DMM?

It's in the ballpark, around 14V peak, when I checked last. Obviously NOT charging the battery at 40A. I needed switched batt V and that seemed like the best place to get it.