Recent content by SputnikOne

Yeah, it's has a sputter at idle ever since I had it, I assume at least one of the cylinders is not having the greatest time. How do I compression test? With a vacuum gauge? Or does that involve taking it apart? I've seen people test vacuum from a line but how would I check individual cylinders?

So should I keep going? I stopped at three cause I don't know how many turns I can do or if it would just unscrew the screw, but it seemed like it wanted more turns to me.

Well I have it some more idle speed and returned the idle mixture (it wants alot of quarter turns to the rich side, not sure how many is considered not normal, but I started at the 1 1/2 and it ran terribly so I kept giving it more and it just kept getting happier so it's at about 3 turns out...

And here's the dreadful warm Start after turning the car off for like a minute or too and trying to restart it after it was warmed up, coughed at me and everything.

recorded this mornings cold start, don't know if it's helpful at all.

Planning on picking up a timing light finally to see what the timing is set too, so I'll probably have some questions on getting that to work, but I thought of something and figured I'd see here. Can the curb idle being too low cause this? It would explain to me why it doesn't want to start...

I can get some better pictures of the choke when I get home, the fuel line is currently fuel hose (diabolical! I know), I'll add the choke kit to my to-buy list, though I suspect it wouldn't be causing the motor to simply not start, unless it controls more than just the air valve on the top and...

Here's some pictures I took this morning of the choke while cold and after warming up and driving home.

I'll check the choke yeah, don't really see how it could fail in a way that prevents the engine from starting unless it's somehow full leaning, could be the fuel mixture is just set too lean aswell, I'll check it out tomorrow morning. I currently have the choke so it's just about fully closed...

Suppose I could try, but it'd be hard to tell if that's what caused it to start or if it just decided to fire like it usually does after it cranks for awhile

Hey all, continuing to sort through the seemingly never ending list of slightly inconveniencing issues for my 1973 Dart. Recently, I've noticed that it takes longer to fire up while cranking than usual, during cold starts it's usually pretty fine, but sometimes it'll stall and die, and then...

Silly me thinking it would be easy to get the parts I needed, you guys said I need to measure the bushings? Including the sleeves?

They have the same part number? Is K791 just the identifier for this type of bushing?

So looking at the bushings in the kit the packaging says K-791 on it, there's no brand listed but according to the table y'all posted earlier they won't work at all? Assuming they're the moog ones of course since the part number

Yup, that all makes a lot of sense, I'll hold off for now, thank you all for the warnings. Life would be simpler if parts just worked as intended.