Recent content by thrustbucket

I didn’t mean to get all poindexter on it..haha! sorry. I just like carbs..

True. To a degree. My gen 3 hemi runs a 750 vacuum secondary with a tps and obviously distributiorless ignition. The only real advantage to go to fuel injection in my case, would be a swap over to a full outboard ECM like a Holly Terminator or similar. The benefit really isn’t in each electronic...

You are saying what I was originally thinking. Obviously, just forcing air into a junkyard 318 and changing nothing is gonna end poorly. All things being equal, with proper controls, I think one could boost to the point where the internals, (mainly the crankshaft in this case) are the...

I don’t wholly disagree. But, I do think a properly setup blow-through carburetor can deliver fuel just as efficiently/safely in a drag/wot situation. I do agree that the injection, in cooperation with the ECM and the sensor compliment working in unison gives a huge safety margin. Just not FI...

Interesting. What you are saying is what I was thinking may be the case from my minimal turbo experience. Just to be clear: My actual expectaions are 8-10 psi max @ 5800-6200 rpm with 8.5:1 compression. I would like to avoid the O-ring approach.. but.. It is certainly a consideration, and...

I agree with you in regards to the budget factor. As a matter of fact: That is what has lead me to this build. Backstory: I was building a parts grabber/daily Dakota pickup and I was gonna do an n/a LA build. My base ended up having a cracked magnum block at the freeze plug. Where I am at a...

I am in the process of a 318 LA budget turbocharged build, and there seems to be a lot of common info suggesting limits of around 6psi boost for an 8.5:1 static compression engine. I am aware of how timing events affect dynamic compression, and how all things being equal, these principals...

Yes. I have rebuilt one 42RE automatic transmission. Seems to be successful so far.. I guess time will tell.. I am not claiming to be a profession transmission tech, or an expert by any means. I am just trying to assist someone who appears to be trying to learn how to do this operation himself...

I am assuming we are looking at hydraulic flat tappets only given the combo... What do you have for valve springs? Are you willing to upgrade? I think that info is going to really help narrow it down...

There is truth to this for sure. But, you gotta start somewhere. Question: By 'loaded', do you mean fully assembled with clutches/steels/plates springs etc..? That's how I checked mine..I'm not sure how else you would do it without shooting the piston across the room.. haha!

I took a look at an exploded view of the 727. First, check all the scarf cut rings and be sure they are floating freely in the grooves, and the ends aren't jammed together. If you replaced scarfs with the steel 'clasp' type (not sure the true name) rings, make sure they are locked/snapped...

This is great and useful info!

I agree with this. I am also for the 'scruzz wheel' as I call it, on an electric angle grinder for the bulk of it. I prefer chemical/scrape w/ dressed drywall spatula first, then the scruzz wheel. Rustoleum 'Aircraft stripper' gel used to work really good. But, I think some ding-dong used it in...

You mentioning overlap got me thinking. I find interesting the -1 degree overlap result.. @ .050" I can see it is correct. However, overlap at .006" is 58 degrees! It can be seen on the graph. -1 degrees is really deceiving. This cam has significant overlap. This is a good example of why specs...

I am having a little difficulty reminding myself of the 44re rebuild I did six months ago, and I know they are more of a 904 than a 727.. But, isn't there a piston in the drum with a large diameter rubber seal behind the clutch pack? Did you replace that large seal? It sounds like you are...