Recent content by TJman

I have a 1975 Duster and just started looking into getting my 904 rebuilt/doing it myself. The place down the road that specializes in classics said if I bring the car down there they'd take care of it for around $2000, just to give you an idea. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Looks like I can get...

Just curious - why change to a non-lockup? I have a second hand lockup in my 75 Duster 318 and I'm considering whether to rebuild that one or the spare non-lockup that I have.

I'm not afraid to dig in and try. It's just hard knowing what parts or kit to buy. Maybe I won't know until I get it apart and look through the book. I'll contact Transtar - that sounds promising.

I'd figured it would be more than that, since the lockup in the car is slipping in reverse and the spare 904 was inoperable when I took it out. I was told that bands were burned out (or something).

Thanks. When you rebuilt them, did you rebuild the valve body also? I can't find much on that.

I wondered about that too. It's just less convenient because it's in the car. I wonder if I need a specific kit for a lockup.

I'm thinking about rebuilding my old 904 for street use. The videos make it look doable, and I plan on purchasing the manual by Tom Hand. Question: > I can't seem to find good info about valve bodies. Is it typical to replace the valve body or rebuild? > I don't see valve...

Any updates? I'm thinking Bilstein too, but want all the feedback I can get. Thx.

Update: I later switched to 1.03" torsion bars and I like them better. It feels more nimble and handles bumps like a champ. I now find myself looking for sharp turns and bumps to go over for fun. Go heavy sway bar and heavy torsion bars, and then quality shocks to soften the ride imho. I...

Pricey or not, if they solve my problems... Maybe I'll be in the mood to spend the money when warm weather comes back around.

I was thinking about that, but the only ones I like the look of are from SPC and kinda pricey. What kind did you go with?

I was researching that when I found this thread. I'm trying to tune my front suspension and can't get negative camber on one side. Someone suggested adding 1/8" washers between the ball joint casting and spindle to tilt the wheel in. I'm thinking about trying it.

I didn't have the sway bar disconnected when I set the ride height, but I can see how that would cause me to adjust one side differently than the other. I raised it up and messed with it along with straightening the steering wheel and it was much better. I'm hopefull that with the adjustable...

Thanks for the reply. Right after I posted, I went home for lunch, loosened the UCA bolts and was able to move it through the range of travel. I tightened the strut until it no longer wanted to drop all the way down and then losened it slightly so it would move again. Since it's now shorter...

I'm installing QA1 adjustable strut rods on my 75 Duster and have questions (stupid ones). Everyone says "adjust it so you can move through the entire path of travel with no binding." I removed my sway-bar, shocks, tie rod ends and cut my strut bars. Passenger LCA moves easily fore/aft and I...