Recent content by Valsig66

Yes. Pressing them in made them STAY IN. Daily driving it now.

I'm using 14 inch rims and the lug has always been tapered to go into rim. Today I will try to press them in, instead of pulling them in.

I'm using this tool to pull in the new studs. Should I try pressing them in?

Just did the scarebird disc change on my 65 dart. Scarebird recommends changing to longer studs (Dorman #610-156). Problem is the knurl on the stud is too skinny for my hub. So I bought new studs with a slightly bigger knurl (Dorman #610-114). New studs were tight untill driving around started...

Yeah I bought it for 9 inch. The part number on the hub spacers are for both 9 and 10inch.

There's the front and back of the hub. Feels like the ring is to small for the hub

They instructions on they're website but no where does it say where these hub spacers go

Currently doing a conversion on my 65 with the scarebird kit and came at a dead stop for a moment. The kit comes with hub spacers and I'm wondering. Any of you that have done this know where the hub spacers go?

Something worth checking out for sure. But why does it sink when it's put into drive?? And firm when isn't Ok will check them out this weekend. Thanks for your feedback

Yes, all new wheel cylinders and brake pads were changed to all 4 sides. It drove and stopped fine for about 2 weeks then this happened.

I bled all four sides a little while ago and no air came out from the bleeder valve. Only when it's put into drive the pedal goes to floor. I'm trying to upload a video to show you

Yeah I bench bled the MC before I put it on. It's from a 69 dart with manual brakes.

Brake pedal is firm when engine is off. But goes to floor when it's on. It's a 65 dart upgraded the single pot MC to a dual. This car has no brake booster. When I go to bleed the brakes absolutely no air comes out just all brake fluid. Changed all the brakes and wheel cylinders when I did the...