Recent content by zackw

As for the car itself, if I had the money lying around I would repaint the engine bay, the door jambs, restore the dash cluster, swap in a 4 speed and bucket seats and a Torqstorm kit w/ a big brand EFI system (would just need to figure out the pulley situation with AC and PS). Then you would...

Hey all, Waffling back and forth on selling my car since moving to the city, I think the most cost effective way to keep it fun and drivable in city traffic would be to swap in an OD 4-speed. Car is a '70 Swinger 225 w/ 904, I'm on a budget too (who isn't) so thought I'd put a feeler out and...

I have a buddy passing through your area on the way to see me tomorrow. Not sure if it'll fit in his car but I'll PM you my contact info to see if we can work something out.

RedFish... thanks for the insight. I was told it was a bad bushing and ran with it!! Shows how much I really know... I think you are right, no point sending the gauge and bezels to one place only to have the work split up. I believe GCAR in Washington state does rechroming, bezel restoration...

Thanks. What is Red Line's turnaround like? After further research I was thinking of giving Shannon a call today. It's between that and John Manush/2K Inc, but I've read some mixed reviews about the guy on here.

I'm fed up of fiddling with my instrument cluster. I replaced my fuel sending unit, now the regulator is out. Replaced speedo cable and the needle starts squealing (bad plastic bushing) and so on... I'm seeing a few sites that offer cluster restorations with varying prices but they're all old...

Did this sale go through? I'd be interested

I have some original slant six springs and torsion bars that I replaced recently and don't really want to add to the hoard... the torsion bars I believe are the small diameter, .82" or so. Have the shackles for the springs but no u-bolts, and the bushings are all toast. I don't presume that...

Hi @ski1, your inbox is full so I can't send you a PM. Any idea on shipping to TX 76706? Thanks.

Well, I just happened to see a picture on facebook which gave me the perfect idea of just what to make. Here's the picture and the DIY linkage. Not super interesting, but thought I would share how relatively simple it is to make from scratch. The kickdown linkage attached to the manifold...

Some detail on that adjuster in case anyone is curious.

In the diagram from the Haynes manual, part #7 is labelled "slotted adjuster link." So I would guess the adjustment takes place there instead of the rod, which makes my life easier...

Ok, I understand. I think that is all I need to know to make something myself without initial measurements. The linkage has some available travel "forwards" (i.e. up) while it's disconnected like this, so I assume the spring in the diagram is to pull it fully upwards at closed throttle. Then...

Aha, I found it in the Haynes manual, it is set up like I suspected. @krazykuda, have you got one of these types of rods? Or anyone else? Just need the measurements and I can make one myself I think. Another question I have is how strong of a spring to use. It looks like it shares a clip with...

I am not sure if it needs to be slotted or not. The "nub" on the kickdown arm appears to be the same kind of nub with the pin through it on the other end of the flat bar in krazykuda's pics. On the throttle end, there's a hole for a rod with a 90° bend to be held with clip, just like in the...