Recent content by zookgumby

I ended up machining about .035" off the mating flange and did not reinstall the thin sealing washer (used yamabond sealant). Now it works fine! Thanks for your help. Tom

I'm still chasing a cure. I bought a new switch but it was the wrong design and among other things is too short to make contact. The correct design does not use an o-ring, but uses a thin butyl-coated washer to seal. Whenever the park position does not work the tranny is hot, it will always...

I'll try again, I couldn't get it to move first try...I think the o-ring has hardened over time, the tranny is rebuilt but sat for years, or I may just try a new switch if that doesn't do the trick. Thanks Bewy, at least now I know what I'm dealing with.

Ok, I've spent a lot of time on this issue, and think I know what the problem could be. I replaced the steel framework for the floor shifter (the old one was crap repaired), adjusted both the shifter cable and park cable, made sure the neutral safety switch was working properly...and the park...

Thanks Bewy...I'll give it a shot. Tom

I have adjusted the cable to where it should be consistent...but the steel "cage" that supports the shift/cable mechanism and mounts the shifter itself has been broken and rewelded by the previous owner so, that may be a factor. I've spent many hours getting the setup to be good with regard to...

Hi all, As noted, the car will always start in neutral but only sometimes in park. This is a floor shift model. My first guess would be the neutral safety switch, but does it only function when in park and not neutral? Thanks for any info... Tom

As a dirt biker for about 45 years, cleaning plugs was a way of life. I wash them with acetone first to get rid of oils, then clean them with the sock device, then wire brush the threads, then blow out any residue (beads) and carefully check with a magnifier to make sure nothing was embedded...

I'm 77, had a stroke while riding a dirt bike two years ago, still recovering. During the covid fiasco, I bought a model A and restored it, then bought and finished builds on a 41 ford hot rod, a 64 el camino, and a 65 dodge dart. It was really fun at first, but I'm starting to fall apart...

If you decide to keep, you can check for cracks with a die penetrant...

Here's the setup. As you will note, the throttle cable clamp lines up nicely with the throttle cable location, and the whole bracket is bolted to the rear-drivers side carb stud/nut. The lower spring offsets (with tension) the additional cable drag the cable and KD lever resistance that made...

Hey guys, Thanks for all your help, but I found the problem and it wasn't the tranny setup. The elelbrock carb has no less than two adapter throttle linkage plates, the first being the edelbrock adapter for the Mopar throttle design, and a second being an adapter for the Bouchillon tranny lever...

The linkage is in a box, LOL. I went to a cable system as noted earlier - after trying a Lokar system, I installed the fairly expensive Bouchillon kit which is considered by many to be the best design - and based on the tranny operation, other than the current auto kick down issue, I think it...

I didn't convert from a 2bbl. I bought the car with a built engine with the edelbrock 4bbl. I don't have sufficient information to take on modifying the rod system, at least before I try the alternative solutions. Thanks, Tom

Thanks! I'll just have to suck it up and get it done. This car wasn't finished (I was told the owner had passed) so the tranny issues due to poor or lack of adjustment has been a major issue so far, but it's almost there. Tom