TTI guys

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69signetv8

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Have any of you "during a rebuild" just slowly lowered the motor between your TTI held in place on the fender wells rather then going from the bottom up? I can understand the directions of TTI if your just swapping out headers and yes...the bottom is the only way. I'm just not sure if I will be able to get enough front jack lift without using a lumber yard of wood :scratch:

Thanks
 
I saw the guys on Horsepower TV do it that way on a 68 or so Cuda a couple of years ago, but maybe someone else has personal experence. Did you notice that the instructions say the coating could be damaged if you're breaking in a new engine. That disclamer bothers me since they are so expensive. And yea you're right about having to have the front jacked high to mount from below, my Dart's rear bumper was almost on the floor before they would swing up.
 
gerty said:
I saw the guys on Horsepower TV do it that way on a 68 or so Cuda a couple of years ago, but maybe someone else has personal experence.
I wouldn't use those Bozo's as an example. They mounted the battery on the LEFT side of the trunk "for traction..." and installed the fuel cell backwards in that Notchback. They got their asses kicked on their message boards on THAT non-Chevy (or Ford...) build-up. I also think it was the last Mopar they did.




gerty said:
Did you notice that the instructions say the coating could be damaged if you're breaking in a new engine. That disclamer bothers me since they are so expensive. And yea you're right about having to have the front jacked high to mount from below, my Dart's rear bumper was almost on the floor before they would swing up.

You mean I have to install those piece of **** Hookers AGAIN to break in my motor????
 
69signetv8 said:
Have any of you "during a rebuild" just slowly lowered the motor between your TTI held in place on the fender wells rather then going from the bottom up? I can understand the directions of TTI if your just swapping out headers and yes...the bottom is the only way. I'm just not sure if I will be able to get enough front jack lift without using a lumber yard of wood :scratch:

Thanks
It can be done - least I've done it. - going slowly and having at least a second person to help with the movement of the headers as you lower the motor. Disconnect at collector flange, leave oil filter off and remove the bolt that holds the idler arm to the frame as the cross link tends to get in the way.
#7 loose pipe will need to be installed after the motor is in place.

As far as jack height - my jack stands are no more than 16" tall. One of the keys I have found with the installation from below is to be able to get the crosslink back from its normal location - visa disconnect the idler arm from the frame.
 
Thanks, It's not a "new" motor so having to use old headers are not a flash up problem. I e-mailed TTI on this, however no return as yet.
 
69signetv8 said:
Have any of you "during a rebuild" just slowly lowered the motor between your TTI held in place on the fender wells rather then going from the bottom up? I can understand the directions of TTI if your just swapping out headers and yes...the bottom is the only way. I'm just not sure if I will be able to get enough front jack lift without using a lumber yard of wood :scratch:

Thanks

IMO, Lowering the motor into the engine with the headers already in... IS the easier way to do it. I have crappy hookers but that's how i did it. Just use Blanket, old bath towels, Etc between the headder and paint. Some bungee cords also work well to hold the headders in place while your lowering... 8-)
 
Thanks guys, Got this from TTI :thumbup:

You can lay the headers in the engine bay and lower the engine into position, then bolt the headers on. The torsion bars will prevent the assembly from being installed in one piece.

Tube Technologies, Inc. (TTI)
1555 Consumer Circle
Corona, CA 92880 USA
(951) 371-4878
www.ttiexhaust.com
 
Eric_S68 said:
IMO, Lowering the motor into the engine with the headers already in... IS the easier way to do it. I have crappy hookers but that's how i did it. Just use Blanket, old bath towels, Etc between the headder and paint. Some bungee cords also work well to hold the headders in place while your lowering... 8-)

I agree, my father and I used bungee cords and lowered it in from the top. :thumbup:
 
Thats the way I put mine on. When you get ready to put the back tube on clean it real well with 0000 steel wool and lube it up wth WD40 or something slick, it makes them go together alot easier. And yeah, you never want to break a new engine in with new headers, I just sent a $600.00 set of coated Hookers back for a customer to be recoated because he didn't read the instructions. Now they look like crap because they didn't strip what was left of the old coating off before they re coated them.
 
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