8 3/4" 489 help needed w/ solid sleeve

-
Blue Grey Duster

Blue Grey Duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
493
Reaction score
77
Location
Ohio
I'm trying to set up a 489 with a solid spacer and it seems that it is too long.
Is this a common problem or am I missing something ?

I'm using new Timken bearings and new set up bearings and the cups were pressed in.

.010" Spacer shim is too much, the bearings won't load.

What do you think Guys ? ](*,)



Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
​
 
Have you tryed it with no shims? If it tightens up then that just means you need less shim than a 0.10. Are you using the original shim between the pinion bearing and the pinion? You have to reuse that shim. The crush sleeve eleminator does not eliminate that one.
 
Thanks for the feed back.

It's a new ring and pinion and the pinion is shimmed.

And I've tried it without the spacer shim and the load is too much.

Like you said, it needs less than .010" shim, but it's not recommended to use a shim that thin. It'll get squeezed out.

Has anyone had to take a cut on the spacer ?



Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
If you have the ability to cut another 0.10 off the spacer I would go that route. I've used the solid spacer in the past and It doesn't take much shim to get the right preload but it seems like it was more than 0.10. What size shim did you use behind the bearing? And did you set the pinion depth with the correct tools?
 
It's good to hear someone else has done this. I'm sure the guys who do this a lot use crush sleeves, and why not.

I don't think the pinion head shim size will matter.

I think the bearing cup seat or seats were cut a hair deep and placed the bearings closer to each other. Bearing - spacer - shim - Bearing.

Or I got a reject bearing.

You're right, it is more than .010". I'll need more than .020" to be able to adjust the shims .002" either way + or - .

The spacer comes with 5 shims,10,12,12,16, and 20, so you can adjust by .002" by changing shims, which you've already done before. Torque is 125' Lbs.

I guess I'll need to take @ .025" off and clean up both ends.




Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
Since you installed a new set of gears is why I was asking about the shim. Did you set the pinion depth and check the mesh pattern? What brand gears did you use? You can't really set the pinion bearing preload till you get a good mesh pattern.
 
I set the pinion depth and checked the pattern. Thanks for asking.

I'll try to show you a picture. I'm having trouble locating them.

Motive gear







Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
Good luck with getting them set up with no noise. I have had hit and miss luck with Motive. I found that the quietest set up is to concentrate on the face and the flank of the ring gear. I shoot for a pattern in the center of the tooth face and flank. Forget about trying to center the contact pattern heel to toe, you will drive yourself nuts. Here is a set up guide from Yukpon that I use.



[ame]http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Yukon%20Gear%20Ring%20and%20Pinion%20installation%20instructions.pdf[/ame]
 
I've used the solid spacer twice with no issues. Can't remember how much shim I used but I'm sure it was more than .010"... Like you said you must have got a bearing or cup cutt a little off. Or maybe the spacer was even made a few thousandths too long. Can you measure it and post what it is? I have a new one setting here for my rearend project I can measure to see how they compare. Oh yeah, SG is dead on about the Motive gears. I'm not crazy about them cause their so hard to get set up to run quiet.
 
Thanks SG and Fishy.

Looks like 2.920" - Ratech

I'm--Still trying to send a photo ! ! ! What a computer operator I am...







Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
Here's at .034" and .036". Thanks Guys!
 

Attachments

  • P1060056 (Medium) (Small).JPG
    63.4 KB · Views: 215
  • P1060060 (Medium).JPG
    84.3 KB · Views: 209
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
Thanks SG and Fishy.

Looks like 2.920" - Ratech

I'm--Still trying to send a photo ! ! ! What a computer operator I am...







Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
Click to expand...

Dang! Mine's .015" longer than yours if I measured it right. Not easy to measure with a mic since it's tapered.

As for the pattern, it's close but looks like you need to bring in the backlash just a little tighter. What's the coast side look like?
 
Pattern looks pretty good. Might be a little to close to the face which means you need to add some to the pinion shim. But not bad.
 
You're right about trying to measure it, and then, sometimes it's .005" off when you go back to zero.

Try putting it between two pieces of good flat stock, measure the whole thing then measure and subtract the flat stock.

What tipped you off about the BL. ?

Thanks for the schooling. I need it.
Will try with the pics.



Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
You're right about trying to measure it, and then, sometimes it's .005" off when you go back to zero.

Try putting it between two pieces of good flat stock, measure the whole thing then measure and subtract the flat stock.

What tipped you off about the BL. ?

Thanks for the schooling. I need it.
Will try with the pics.



Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
Click to expand...

I'm already in my pajama's so I didn't want to dig around in the machine shed looking for flat bar and get dirty so I just did my best with the mic, LOL... I just like to see the pattern centered a little deeper which would be the BL adjustment. What's it set at now?
 
.034" and .036" Coast.
 

Attachments

  • P1060058 (Small) (2).JPG
    51.5 KB · Views: 202
  • P1060063 (Small).JPG
    74.1 KB · Views: 218
At 20" lb preload, and .036", I took 3 equal spaced BL readings and got 6.5, 6, 6.5


I'm tired too ! I'm hitting the sack. Thanks for all the interest and the good info. from you guys. It's been an enjoyable night. I feel like I'm getting some where.

And I also like the Yukon Installation Guide, from SG.



Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
fishy68 said:
Ok. If your at .006~.0065" now you don't want to go tighter. The coast side looks real good with either but I favor .036".
Click to expand...

I agree with fishy, if your going to run it. I like .036 better. Backlash Is suppose to be 7-10 so don't space it any closer than you have it now.
 
When I went to .036" on the drive side, it finally pulled down from the face toward the root.
Thanks for jumping in here and giving me your advice. This site has helped me so much!

So I'll try it this way, after I get my spacer trimmed. I'm also going to see about upgrading my yoke, now is the time. I have the cast 7260.

After reading this article, I don't know whether to go with solid 7260 ujoints and a billet yoke, or to a new driveshaft with 1350 solids with a forged yoke.

Fishy ! I may be mistaken, but did you just get a new driveshaft at a pretty good price.?

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_1206_driveshaft_tech/viewall.html

Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
No not me. I have a nice barely used aluminum one in the garage I picked up that I plan on having shortened but like a couple other projects ran short on money.

Solid 7260 joints will take a lot of abuse. I've read of several guys using them in race cars running 10's. A billet yoke would be a good investment though.
 
Gary, all this info and pictures sure seem familiar from about a week or two ago. I don't blame you for second and third opinions, I'd do the same thing. Let me know how it comes out.

Russ.
 
Yeah ! I know what you mean when it comes to costs. I'd rather get a forged yoke, should be cheaper than a billet, but I haven't seen one in the 7260 style 29 spline.

Aluminum seems to be a good way to go. I was thinking that way, but the fitting cost may be too much for me. I haven't priced it. I noticed on this site, they suggest 3" aluminum for the corvette, but not the Camaro or Impala.http://www.dynotecheng.com/ Maybe they're looking at the kind of driver behind the wheel. HA HA !

The Mopar Muscle article, that I found on this site, is a good one for driveshaft information.

Like SG suggests, I'll have to look at all my options.:burnout:

Remember: Socialism has no Middle Class.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top