Not my mopar, but need advise on 5.7 vortec chevy

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169dart4y

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Had my work van in to have the injectors replaced and got a call that there is a crack in the cylinder wall. It looks like I need a whole motor. It's a 98 votec 350 chevy , it's a Grummans panel van 3/4 ton so I would say I need a 4 bolt main truck motor.
I looked at Summits and ebay. any suggestion. Thanks
 
Had my work van in to have the injectors replaced and got a call that there is a crack in the cylinder wall. It looks like I need a whole motor. It's a 98 votec 350 chevy , it's a Grummans panel van 3/4 ton so I would say I need a 4 bolt main truck motor.
I looked at Summits and ebay. any suggestion. Thanks

How did they determine its a cracked cylinder? Pull a head off? Depending on mileage and how you use it vs cost is what it boils down too. Swap any Vortec engine in from 96-99 or 2000 on some of the larger GM vehicles.
The last time I had one of those with a cracked cylinder was because the mechanic that fixed the leaking intake gaskets (common on those) managed to drop a nut down an intake port and it jammed against the head and piston when he tried to start it.
 
I was working at the dealer when that engine came out, it did have bearing problems, fuel problems the only engine I ever saw that had 50psi of fuel pressure and wont start and the pump was bad! at 55psi started every time,but like someone said ,did someone drop something down the intake usually coolant down a hole can bend rods .when you get your new motor don't use the gm plastic gaskets go aftermarket
 
How did they determine its a cracked cylinder? Pull a head off? Depending on mileage and how you use it vs cost is what it boils down too. Swap any Vortec engine in from 96-99 or 2000 on some of the larger GM vehicles.
The last time I had one of those with a cracked cylinder was because the mechanic that fixed the leaking intake gaskets (common on those) managed to drop a nut down an intake port and it jammed against the head and piston when he tried to start it.

Yes I'm not sure what happen but the shop owner said he would take care of me. Big dent in the top of the piston, no marks on the head or valves. Unless they were sticking a scope /camera in there and the piston hit it. They did take the head off to see what was happening and noticed the crack in the side of the wall. Not scored/scratched just a little fine crack. I suppose from heat at some point, not since I have owned it.
Talked to the shop today about the whole deal and he said he would put the motor in for free if I bought the motor just to make sure I was happy.
I looked at used motors from 450 to 1200, remanufactured from 1500 to 1700 + gaskets. I bought a new Chevy crate motor for 2100.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Here's a web site that my brother uses with listings from local salvage yards from around the country. Most of them will give a minimal warranty and also may ship. Do a search for your year truck and see what engines are around your area. I tried a search for you below, but it may not be correct.

http://car-part.com/


Here's a quick search that I tried for you, but you may get better results if you fill in the information yourself from the above page.

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search....278796&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=
 
Rock Auto lists a rebuilt long-block for $1253 plus $143 shipping. Core charge is $500, price includes return shipping for the core.
 
I bought a new Chevy crate motor for 2100.
Considered the warranty difference, a good choice.
 
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