Having trouble diagnosing hesitation/stumbling

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racerdude5

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I've got a 74 Duster with a 2bbl 318 that I've been driving for the last 3 years, it's always ran good. It has a remanufactured Carter BBD on it which I bought about 4 years ago, it also has a new electronic ignition retrofit kit from MP on it (someone put points on it) which I also installed about 4 years ago. The car has at least 90k miles on it and I'm almost certain the engine has never been rebuilt or opened up. I've put at least 15k miles on the car since I've had it.
Anyways, I recently did a wiring overhaul and fixed any faults with the factory harness, which made it run way better until the battery died a few days after (the splice to the voltage regulator was bad). It backfired when jump starting it, and that was when the problem started. It began hesitating and/or stumbling on acceleration, however it idles fine and runs great under WOT. I have a feeling it is a vacuum leak; the problem is definitely air/fuel mixture or timing.
I rebuilt the carburetor and fixed a vacuum leak at the base gasket without any improvement. I changed the spark plugs, checked the wires, and checked the timing. I advanced the timing 2 degrees from where it's been set at for the last 3 years to 24 degrees at idle (I run no vacuum advance, it doesn't need it), and that made it run a little bit better. I advanced the timing another 2 degrees to 26 degrees and it ran just as bad as it did at 22 degrees, so I set it back at 24.
The issue still persists. It hesitates as though it is too lean, and the hesitation doesn't go away until wide open throttle. Could it be the timing chain? I know for a fact that the timing chain in the car is very worn and has a lot of slack in it, the timing mark jumps around a decent amount. When I rev the engine in park the timing mark shows that it retards before the mechanical advance kicks in, ( the mark moves down and then up). The problem is not present when the engine is not under load, such as in neutral or park. Or is it more likely to be a vacuum leak?

So far I have:
Rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor and set it to factory specs (fixing vacuum leaks at base gasket)
Changed the spark plugs
Checked the timing (advancing it from 22 to 24 made it run better)
Checked the spark plug wires
Changed all the vacuum plugs
Checked the coil

Note: It idles very well, and runs great under wide open throttle. The only issue is the hesitation under acceleration. It's acting like it is too lean, not like it has a miss. So the problem cannot be at any single cylinder, or two. The hesitation only occurs under load.
 
I've got a 74 Duster with a 2bbl 318 that I've been driving for the last 3 years, it's always ran good. It has a remanufactured Carter BBD on it which I bought about 4 years ago, it also has a new electronic ignition retrofit kit from MP on it (someone put points on it) which I also installed about 4 years ago. The car has at least 90k miles on it and I'm almost certain the engine has never been rebuilt or opened up. I've put at least 15k miles on the car since I've had it.
Anyways, I recently did a wiring overhaul and fixed any faults with the factory harness, which made it run way better until the battery died a few days after (the splice to the voltage regulator was bad). It backfired when jump starting it, and that was when the problem started. It began hesitating and/or stumbling on acceleration, however it idles fine and runs great under WOT. I have a feeling it is a vacuum leak; the problem is definitely air/fuel mixture or timing.
I rebuilt the carburetor and fixed a vacuum leak at the base gasket without any improvement. I changed the spark plugs, checked the wires, and checked the timing. I advanced the timing 2 degrees from where it's been set at for the last 3 years to 24 degrees at idle (I run no vacuum advance, it doesn't need it), and that made it run a little bit better. I advanced the timing another 2 degrees to 26 degrees and it ran just as bad as it did at 22 degrees, so I set it back at 24.
The issue still persists. It hesitates as though it is too lean, and the hesitation doesn't go away until wide open throttle. Could it be the timing chain? I know for a fact that the timing chain in the car is very worn and has a lot of slack in it, the timing mark jumps around a decent amount. When I rev the engine in park the timing mark shows that it retards before the mechanical advance kicks in, ( the mark moves down and then up). The problem is not present when the engine is not under load, such as in neutral or park. Or is it more likely to be a vacuum leak?

So far I have:
Rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor and set it to factory specs (fixing vacuum leaks at base gasket)
Changed the spark plugs
Checked the timing (advancing it from 22 to 24 made it run better)
Checked the spark plug wires
Changed all the vacuum plugs
Checked the coil

Note: It idles very well, and runs great under wide open throttle. The only issue is the hesitation under acceleration. It's acting like it is too lean, not like it has a miss. So the problem cannot be at any single cylinder, or two. The hesitation only occurs under load.

Is the 22-24 the initial?
 
I agree, timing chain. Hopefully the pistons haven't met the valves... I used to have a '74 Dart with the 318 (140k miles) and one day I was idling at a traffic light and it just quit. Fuel vapor was being pushed backwards out of the carb when cranking.
All the plastic teeth had stripped off the cam gear. Not one of Mopar's better ideas.
Very low compression even after a new timing chain - bent valves. Scrapped it.

BTW if you drive it on the street you do need a vacuum advance. Yes the car will run without it, but your cruise mileage will be much worse than it needs to be.
 
I've had a loose one jump a tooth, crank the timing up and it'll run but wouldn't want to take fuel and power up till say 2500 rpms, next shut down it jumped another tooth and upon firing went to spitting and sputtering.
 
Thanks guys! I'm glad to have found some people who have had experience with this. I'm pretty sure it just skipped a single tooth, hopefully somebody replaced the nylon gears some time ago. I don't think the pistons have touched the valves, so on that front I think I'm okay. I'll find out for sure when I take the top end off. Cloyes double roller going in ASAP.

As far as the vacuum advance goes, since I've had it, it didn't want to run with it. I tried adjusting the diaphragm and everything but it just didn't like it. Maybe once I get the valve timing all set right it will be okay with it. I'll worry about that after I get out of the danger zone :D
 
............If it skipped a tooth ur timing would be retarded about 10 degrees from where it was originally at..........kim.............
 
Check end play on distributor.
If the drive gear and shaft between the oil pump can work up and down, there will be a lot of timing variations.
If there is, a few washers on lower shaft of the distributor (behind the nylon spacer) will stop that issue.
 
One issue that crops up on smallblocks is the heat crossover plugging up w/carbon, the ports in the heads and the intake will completely be closed off. This will cause hesitation
and a choke/fast idle that takes too long to open/idle down, just an addtn'l thought. A bone stk. eng. shouldn't run poorly w/the stk. vac adv hooked up, but too cool an intake
will run lean, and the advance may cause a surge when it's pulled in as a result. I would change that t-chain jumped or not at that age & mileage anyway, good luck!
 
One issue that crops up on smallblocks is the heat crossover plugging up w/carbon, the ports in the heads and the intake will completely be closed off. This will cause hesitation
and a choke/fast idle that takes too long to open/idle down, just an addtn'l thought. A bone stk. eng. shouldn't run poorly w/the stk. vac adv hooked up, but too cool an intake
will run lean, and the advance may cause a surge when it's pulled in as a result. I would change that t-chain jumped or not at that age & mileage anyway, good luck!
My 71 Windsor 318 w Rochester 2 bbl, when my parents bought it for 450 in Oct 1980, was dead-dead.
Put a 66 Carter 273 carb on it, fix a flatted two tires after busting off two normal thread studs, and drove it home less than a mile away. Pissed off the PO to see me drive it off. But the choke was very sluggish..
Always too much or not enough, hot vs cold.
And I'm the mechanical spring coil carb linkage bending whisperer who can make it perfect, and it ain't working.

F!

Pull the manifold.
Crossover plugged with rock hard carbon deposits.
Thanks, Rochester.
Many hours with chisels, screwdrivers, welding rods, and it was open.
Choke, pull-off, everything then could be adjusted to work like a perfect new car.
This is a situation that feeds on itself and makes itself worse in time.
 
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