stick on side trim removal ?

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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you know, the ugly stuff so you don't get a door ding crap. ruins the look of the car. it is coming lose at a coupe of ends, it has that rubber looking material in its center and glued on. the paint is original but very nice. what can i do to remove that residual rubber and glue ???????
 
I am interested as well. I removed mine and got all the adhesive off, but I have shadow lines on either side of where the rubber was. This is the best picture I have of it. Car is in original paint, but may have had some touch ups over the years, so it could be paint build up, or it could be old petrified adhesive. I thought about trying fine sandpaper, but am afraid I will make it worse. What is an eraser wheel?

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On my '74 once I got a good purchase on the end it peeled right off. Heat gun might help facilitate things a little, or even just parking it out in the sun for a bit. Bug and tar remover should soften the adhesive if it looks hardened. Once it's off the adhesive remover should take off any left over adhesive. Eraser wheel would too, but be careful about the body line so you don't burn through the paint. You can also use some buffing compound, or scratch remover or the like to get the shadows and residual stuff off.

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I found the eraser wheel. It says not for use on lacquer paint. What was the factory using for paint in 1969?
 
qkcuda said:
I found the eraser wheel. It says not for use on lacquer paint. What was the factory using for paint in 1969?
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The finish paint was generally enamel. That didn't cross my mind when I mentioned it. It can heat up paint and burn it. Sometimes adhesives can stain paint. Have you tried some compound on it? Work a small spot. If the mouldings have been taped up and painted around you should be able to feel a paint edge that feels higher then where the molding was at. If it glue residue it normally feels higher then the paint. Hard to tell what you have going on there looking at your pic, but it almost looks like that side might have been sprayed with some red oxide primer and repainted with the moldings taped, and I say that because primer is a heavier base and it will travel further behind tape lines , nooks and crannies, and jambs then paint will. If that is in fact the case there is not a whole lot you can do that won't make it look worse. If it has been refinished in lacquer products as was common in the late seventies most solvents will bite back into it if your not extremely careful. If it feels like glue on top of paint , I use the 3m adhesive remover on a rag kind of soak it for a min then use a soft yellow bondo spreader to kind of give it a scraping action or a plastic razor blade.
 
barbee6043 said:
you know, the ugly stuff so you don't get a door ding crap. ruins the look of the car. it is coming lose at a coupe of ends, it has that rubber looking material in its center and glued on. the paint is original but very nice. what can i do to remove that residual rubber and glue ???????
Click to expand...

Besides the eraser, the other safe way without risk to the paint is to roll the old rubber tape off with your thumb, and then go back to the adhesive remover. Yes, tedious, slow, it takes all day, you'll have blisters on your thumbs, and you'll invent some new colorful words before it's over.
 
Get some nylon fishing line and two pieces of wood dowel rod to slip under the molding. Once the trim is off the 3M adhesive cleaner will get the rest off. I would wash the car with dish soap after the trim is off to get as much grit off the car before using the adhesive remover.
 
GeorgeH said:
The finish paint was generally enamel. That didn't cross my mind when I mentioned it. It can heat up paint and burn it. Sometimes adhesives can stain paint. Have you tried some compound on it? Work a small spot. If the mouldings have been taped up and painted around you should be able to feel a paint edge that feels higher then where the molding was at. If it glue residue it normally feels higher then the paint. Hard to tell what you have going on there looking at your pic, but it almost looks like that side might have been sprayed with some red oxide primer and repainted with the moldings taped, and I say that because primer is a heavier base and it will travel further behind tape lines , nooks and crannies, and jambs then paint will. If that is in fact the case there is not a whole lot you can do that won't make it look worse. If it has been refinished in lacquer products as was common in the late seventies most solvents will bite back into it if your not extremely careful. If it feels like glue on top of paint , I use the 3m adhesive remover on a rag kind of soak it for a min then use a soft yellow bondo spreader to kind of give it a scraping action or a plastic razor blade.
Click to expand...

I did use the thumbnail method to take it off, followed by solvent. The edges are raised slightly. On the passenger side, I know there was a repair at the bottom of the door, but the drivers side is the same and there is no evidence of any repairs. I think it is a build up of hard adhesive as you suggest, it definitely is higher than the paint. The solvent I used when I removed the trim took off the sticky residue but didn't soften these edges at all. I think I may have used the grease and wax remover you use before paint, since I had a gallon of it on hand.
 
qkcuda said:
I did use the thumbnail method to take it off, followed by solvent. The edges are raised slightly. On the passenger side, I know there was a repair at the bottom of the door, but the drivers side is the same and there is no evidence of any repairs. I think it is a build up of hard adhesive as you suggest, it definitely is higher than the paint. The solvent I used when I removed the trim took off the sticky residue but didn't soften these edges at all. I think I may have used the grease and wax remover you use before paint, since I had a gallon of it on hand.
Click to expand...
Wax and grease remover is not as aggressive as the 3m stuff and might not touch it. Sometimes you have to soak it and keep it wet for a time for it to it's thing. Tedious and time consuming.
 
update/ I pulled off the stick on door ding guard, used diesel to remove the rubber backing that remained on some places. then used a single edge new razor blade to remove lots of remaining. yes body man once suggested the razor blade to remove some runs I made in acrylic urethane! ya got to be CAREFUL! to sore for glue adhesive remover this am.
 
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