drilling out lugs from hub, disc brake upgrade

Killer6 said

Any TNT laying around?:D I kid I kid! No, the studs should always be knocked INTO the the backside area, the factory made this difficult when they swaged the splined shoulder
to retain the front drums to the hub. There are only 3 ways to remove the front drums &/or studs
1) Use a mounted stone on a dremel/die grinder & remove the swage from the stud 'till You can remove the drum &/or knock the studs in conventionally(sssloooooww)
2) The method I posted above, burn right thru the studs w/a grinder removing the swage in the process, poke 'em thru w/a punch.
3) The OP's method, which as AJ already pointed out is removing them the "wrong direction", but makes it possible by "hollowing" the splined section so that it shrinks as it is
driven through. This prevents it from broaching the hole oversize so the new studs will still bite as designed,....also ssloooooww.

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I think I solved part of my confusion on this thread by doing a little research on FABO and my factory manual on the Kelsey Hayes Disc Brake Hub . Apparently the studs for the KH hubs are not swedged and are just held in place by knurling and a press fit shoulder, and it is perfectly OK to just press the studs in and out KH Hub removal ? My 68 factory manual seems to substantiate this with instructions to press wheel studs out and in for the disc hubs. Below I have a pic of couple original KH studs (actually have KH imprinted in the top of the stud) from a KH system I purchased several months ago. I don't think the knurls on these qualify as swedges?



The OP was removing studs from a front drum that are certainly swedged. I am still a little unclear how you remove the swedge on these front drum studs with a die grinder or swedge removal bit without burrowing into the hub. Very carefully I guess.