4 WHEEL DISC CONVERSION (Ram Man Inc. supplier)

No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
OK Thanks,
No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
Nice work! I think I've looked at all the conversion kits out there and was flipping between firm feel, (front), Dr. Diff (rear) or The Ram Man. Looks like Dr Diff get the thumbs up form you gentlemen!
I read some previous threads of the swap from drum to disc, but still a bit confused about what to do about the proportioning/brake line situation...and what is the best way to go.
-If I understand correctly...I keep/or replace(with '68 A-body), stock front to rear brake lines(or go with re-pop stainless steel?), that I plumb to a A-Body '73-'76 proportioning valve/block (should swap out to exact location as my '68 4 wheel drum prop valve, CORRECT?) and use '73-'76 A-body power disc master cylinder (to prop valve) hard lines. AND plumb in a adjustable proportioning valve. (any suggestions on best location for the adjustable valve?)
Thanks Again!