Help with Temp, Gas, Oil Alt gauges FREE VIDEO INCLUDED!
The amp / alt gauge has nothing to do with the rest. If the headlights work, and if turning them on with everything else off does not show a bit of movement to the left, then someone has bypassed the gauge, or it is "stuck." It is fed by the large black and large red wires.........BE CAREFUL!!! Full battery current UNFUSED is present on those leads.
I've posted hundreds of things on gauges. Standby.........
67dart273, gauge tester - Google Search
Below someone posted the resistance test values for one of the service gauge testers. With this you can use an ohmeter...........
HERE IS HOW the gauges OTHER than ammeter work:
The cluster is supplied switched power from the ignition switch...........which powers the gauge regulator various called IVR, instrument limiter, etc.............and the output is branched off to fuel, temp, and oil if you have it
ALL THREE GAUGES are identical electrically. That is, a certain resistance at the sender will result in the gauge needle reading the same on any of the gauges
From the gauges, the sender wires lead separately to the oil, temp, and fuel senders TO GROUND
Some things..........
Some problem areas...........
ALWAYS a suspect is broken/ loose/ corrode pins in the cluster/ PC board connector, either a the connector or at the board............
READ THIS
Printed circuit pins repair
Bad connections where the IVR plugs in. On my 67, the pc board traces were not making contact with the spring fingers for the IVR. The thread above shows this repair, solder jumpers across
The studs/ nuts at the gauges may not be making connection to the pc board. Loosen/ tighten the nuts several times, consider replacing the stamped nuts with "real" nuts.
There of course can be a wiring problem with the sender wires. The temp and oil (if present) go through the bulkhead connector, always a problem.
The senders themselves can be bad, inaccurate, or the wire connection loose/ corroded.
If you can scare up some resistors or a rheostat, or even have a spare fuel sender, you can set the resistance using your ohmeter and sub it for the sender to test. As the resistance chart above shows, this will result in 1/2 tank, full tank, etc whatever you set it for
The amp / alt gauge has nothing to do with the rest. If the headlights work, and if turning them on with everything else off does not show a bit of movement to the left, then someone has bypassed the gauge, or it is "stuck." It is fed by the large black and large red wires.........BE CAREFUL!!! Full battery current UNFUSED is present on those leads.
I've posted hundreds of things on gauges. Standby.........
67dart273, gauge tester - Google Search
Below someone posted the resistance test values for one of the service gauge testers. With this you can use an ohmeter...........
HERE IS HOW the gauges OTHER than ammeter work:
The cluster is supplied switched power from the ignition switch...........which powers the gauge regulator various called IVR, instrument limiter, etc.............and the output is branched off to fuel, temp, and oil if you have it
ALL THREE GAUGES are identical electrically. That is, a certain resistance at the sender will result in the gauge needle reading the same on any of the gauges
From the gauges, the sender wires lead separately to the oil, temp, and fuel senders TO GROUND
Some things..........
Some problem areas...........
ALWAYS a suspect is broken/ loose/ corrode pins in the cluster/ PC board connector, either a the connector or at the board............
READ THIS
Printed circuit pins repair
Bad connections where the IVR plugs in. On my 67, the pc board traces were not making contact with the spring fingers for the IVR. The thread above shows this repair, solder jumpers across
The studs/ nuts at the gauges may not be making connection to the pc board. Loosen/ tighten the nuts several times, consider replacing the stamped nuts with "real" nuts.
There of course can be a wiring problem with the sender wires. The temp and oil (if present) go through the bulkhead connector, always a problem.
The senders themselves can be bad, inaccurate, or the wire connection loose/ corroded.
If you can scare up some resistors or a rheostat, or even have a spare fuel sender, you can set the resistance using your ohmeter and sub it for the sender to test. As the resistance chart above shows, this will result in 1/2 tank, full tank, etc whatever you set it for
